Saturday, 26 December 2020

Singapore and Bali, Feb. 26. - March 09. 2018

Singapore

After spending the past few years exploring Europe and nearby countries, we finally felt that our children were at the right age for a (relatively) hassle-free long-haul trip. Bali had been on our minds for quite some time, and when affordable Swissair tickets to Singapore went on sale in September 2017, we didn’t hesitate for a second. Another dream was about to come true — we were going to visit Singapore as well!

“Mom, look, it’s snowing!” Martin exclaimed on the morning of our departure. Living on the Côte d’Azur, where snow is extremely rare and always causes chaos, this was not exactly what you want to see before a long-haul flight. Our connection to Zurich was scheduled for the afternoon, but sensing trouble, we decided to head to the airport earlier than planned.

Chaos reigned there. Unsurprisingly, our flight was canceled. After standing in line at the Swissair counter for nearly an hour, our fate was finally sealed: no flights were leaving that day. We were rebooked onto an Emirates flight departing the following day — a full 20 hours later than planned.

Finally on our way!

Emirates is known for its excellent service and outstanding in-flight entertainment, and our journey from Nice to Singapore via Dubai went smoothly and comfortably.

We arrived at Singapore Changi Airport in the early afternoon. After filling out an arrival form, queuing for immigration to have our photo and fingerprints taken, and getting our passports stamped, we were ready to go. Changi Airport is enormous, yet impressively organized and spotlessly clean — a wonderful first impression of Singapore.

For our stay, we had chosen the iconic Marina Bay Sands. A true landmark of the city, staying there felt like a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The best rate was available directly through the hotel’s website — certainly not cheap, but still a reasonable deal for a Club Room accommodating two adults and two children under 12. We had originally booked two nights, but due to our flight cancellation, our stay was reduced to just one. I called the hotel from France as soon as we knew about the delay, and they were kind enough not to charge us for the unused night.

Marina Bay Sands is massive, yet the check-in process was surprisingly smooth. We had reserved a Club King Room, and Club guests enjoy a separate check-in area, higher-floor rooms, and access for two adults to Club 55 — an exclusive lounge on the 55th floor offering breakfast, afternoon tea, and pre-dinner drinks. Of course, the hotel’s most famous feature is its rooftop infinity pool, accessible exclusively to hotel guests.

Our Club room was spacious and thoughtfully designed, with a sofa bed for the children and an incredibly comfortable king-size bed for us. A sliding door separated the bedroom from the lounge area, adding extra privacy. The bathroom was huge, featuring both a rainfall shower and a bathtub, with Cavalli toiletries adding a luxurious touch. Located on the 53rd floor, our room offered breathtaking views over Gardens by the Bay and the sea — and what a view it was!

Champagne at Club 55 Lounge

 
The famous infinity pool and jacuzzis with a view
 

View from our room on the 53rd floor

The hotel

Although the hotel was wonderful and we were both tired and jet-lagged, we decided to step outside and explore a little. The next morning we were already flying onward to Bali, so this was our chance to experience Singapore beyond the walls of our hotel.

Hunger quickly guided our plans. Just a short walk away, across the Helix Bridge, the Gluttons Bay outdoor hawker centre seemed like the perfect place for dinner. We sampled several local dishes — plates of noodles, chicken skewers, and dim sum — all freshly prepared and absolutely delicious.

Gluttons Bay

 On the Helix Bridge

Every evening, a laser and music show lights up the fountains in front of Marina Bay Sands. It’s beautiful and definitely worth seeing while in Singapore. Before finally dozing off in the (very comfortable) bed of our hotel room, we took a short stroll through Gardens by the Bay. The gigantic artificial trees looked magical, illuminated against the night sky. There was also a light and music show beneath the trees, but exhaustion caught up with us, and we didn’t quite make it through the entire performance.

Laser, fountain and music show by the bay


Jet lag had us all awake early — around 4 a.m. — so we passed the time playing board games (we always travel with cards, Dobble, and Ligretto), watching the spectacular sunrise over the bay from our 53rd-floor windows, and counting down the minutes until breakfast opened at 6 a.m.

Breakfast was included for two adults with the Club Room, and we paid an additional SGD 22 per child so the kids could join us. There were three breakfast venues to choose from: The Rise restaurant in the lobby, the Club 55 Lounge, or the infinity rooftop pool. Since The Rise opened earliest, that’s where we headed. The breakfast was served buffet-style, offering an impressive selection of hot and cold dishes, with both Asian and continental options. Fresh, varied, and delicious — an excellent start to the day.

We truly enjoyed our stay at Marina Bay Sands and only wished we could have stayed longer.

Arriving a little early at Changi Airport for our flight to Bali gave us time to explore what has been repeatedly voted the world’s best airport. Much like Singapore itself, the airport is clean, colorful, efficient, and beautiful, with plenty of places to eat, drink, and wander — making even airport time feel like part of the journey.

Singapore Changi airport




 Bali, Ubud and around

The 2-hour-and-20-minute flight from Singapore to Denpasar, Bali with AirAsia went smoothly. AirAsia is a comfortable Asian low-cost airline, somewhat comparable to EasyJet in Europe.

We arrived at Denpasar Airport, Bali’s main international gateway, in the late morning and decided to head straight to Ubud, where we would spend the next four days and three nights. Often described as the cultural and spiritual heart of Bali, Ubud lies inland, surrounded by lush jungle and terraced rice fields. Although the distance from the airport to Ubud is only about 40 kilometers, the journey took us roughly an hour by taxi due to narrow roads and often heavy traffic.

Upon arrival, we exchanged some money at the airport. With an exchange rate of roughly 1 EUR to 16,000 Indonesian rupiah, our wallets suddenly felt very full. While airport exchange rates are never ideal, we usually change a small amount there — just enough to cover the taxi ride and get us comfortably through the first day.

Wanting to stay close to central Ubud while still enjoying some peace and quiet, we chose Alaya Resort. The hotel is just a short walk from the town center and the Monkey Forest, yet far enough removed from the hustle and bustle. It even has its own small rice terrace, adding to the tranquil atmosphere. We booked a connecting room: a double for the adults and a twin for the kids, both with lovely private terraces overlooking the surrounding forest.

Our rooms in the Alaya Resort 



After a couple of busy days filled with travel, we decided to take things easy. While the kids enjoyed a swim in the hotel pool, the adults relaxed with a refreshing Bintang — the local beer — at the hotel bar. Later that evening, we went for a leisurely walk into Ubud and had dinner in town.


 
Rice planting at Alaya rice field 
 

Alaya Resort offers an à la carte breakfast menu, with several options to choose from. Our first morning, I opted for the Balinese breakfast — a lovely way to start the day and experience local flavors.


With limited time in Bali but a strong desire to see as much as possible (especially while traveling with two children), we booked a full-day tour with Bali Traditional Tours. Our driver and guide, Wayan, picked us up from the hotel at 9 a.m. The car was clean and comfortable, with bottled water provided. Over the course of the day, Wayan took us privately to more places than we had even imagined, patiently explaining every aspect of Balinese culture along the way. He made us feel incredibly welcome and happily took countless photos for us at temples, waterfalls, mountains, rice fields, and everywhere in between. We highly recommend this company to anyone wanting to explore the Ubud area in depth.

Our first stop with Wayan was the Tegallalang Rice Terraces. Part of the Cultural Landscape of Bali Province, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, these terraces are still actively cultivated by local farmers. It’s one of the must-visit spots around Ubud, but because we arrived early in the morning, we were lucky enough to have the place almost entirely to ourselves.

Tegallalang Rice terraces





Our next stop was the Bali Pulina plantation, a coffee and spice plantation specializing in local produce. We were shown around by a lovely female guide who explained the different plants growing on the property and, of course, their main attraction: coffee production. We learned about the entire process, from picking the beans to roasting and grinding them, including the famous kopi luwak — a well-known Balinese specialty. The visit ended in the plantation café, where we sampled several of the local products.

 
 
 
Coffee plant


By then, we were starting to feel hungry, so it was time for lunch. Wayan took us to a buffet restaurant with a stunning view of Mount Batur, a volcano located about 30 kilometers from Ubud. Unfortunately, the weather began to change, and halfway through our meal the volcano disappeared behind the clouds. Still, we managed to snap a few photos before it vanished.

Earlier, on the drive to the restaurant, the kids had been excitedly pointing out fruit stalls along the road. On our way back, Wayan surprised them with a bag of fresh fruit he had picked up especially for them — a small but thoughtful gesture that made the day even more memorable.

Mount Batur almost disappeared in the clouds
 
Fruit stalls
 
 
 
Before heading to our next destination, we made a small detour so Wayan could show us his home and invite us for a cup of tea and some local pastries with him and his wife. It was a truly special and personal moment of the day.

Wayan and his family live in a traditional Balinese house compound, which consists of several separate buildings, the most important of them being the family temple.




Our day continued with a visit to Pura Tirta Empul, a temple famous for its holy spring water, where Balinese Hindus come for ritual purification. We wandered through the temple grounds, soaking in both the beauty and the spiritual atmosphere of this magnificent place, while listening to Wayan’s captivating stories and explanations along the way.




Before returning to the hotel, we made a quick stop at Tegenungan Waterfall. After a long day, though, we were too tired to hike down to the base. On the way, we also had a chance to sample durian — and decided, unanimously, that it was not our favorite!

 
 


Before returning to the hotel, we made a quick stop at Tegenungan Waterfall. After a long day, though, we were too tired to hike down to the base. On the way, we also had a chance to sample durian — and decided, unanimously, that it was not our favorite!

The next morning, we were woken by hotel room service knocking at our door — it was already 11 a.m., and we had all slept straight through breakfast. Fortunately, we hadn’t planned anything major for the day, just a stroll around Ubud and a visit to the Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

Ubud Monkey Forest is a sanctuary and natural habitat for the Balinese long-tailed monkey, located in Padangtegal, Ubud. Home to roughly 1,049 monkeys, the forest spans 12.5 hectares and contains 186 species of plants and trees. The sanctuary also houses three temples: Dalem Agung Padangtegal Temple, Holy Spring Temple, and Prajapati Temple.

The Monkey Forest itself is essentially a well-maintained park where the monkeys roam freely, though they are regularly fed. We found some of the monkeys a bit bold — the kids were genuinely wary at times. One cheeky monkey snatched a water bottle from my child’s hand, while another “inspected” Johnny’s pockets — fortunately, only finding his Monkey Park tickets! Despite their mischief, the forest is well worth a visit for a peaceful walk amid lush greenery and the chance to observe these fascinating creatures in their natural habitat.









After a pleasant walk through the Monkey Forest, we headed deeper into Ubud to explore the Ubud Palace grounds. The town itself is charming — a lively mix of quaint streets, bustling markets, quirky cafés, and inviting restaurants. Many eateries have upstairs terraces overlooking the streets, perfect for people-watching while enjoying a meal. We particularly recommend Kafe, just a short walk from our hotel, which serves delicious food with friendly, attentive service.

Of course, a visit to Ubud wouldn’t be complete without a traditional Balinese massage. We all treated ourselves — it’s a must-do here, offering excellent quality at very reasonable prices. After a relaxing session, we felt refreshed and ready to continue our Bali adventures.

 
Some photos of the beautiful temples of Ubud, Ubud Palace and our massage




We all fell in love with Ubud and hope to return one day, but after three wonderful days, it was time to move on. Our next destination was the coastal town of Legian, situated between the tourist hubs of Kuta and Seminyak.

On the way, we decided to make a stop at Bali Bird Park, located in the Gianyar Regency. Covering an area of 2,000 square meters, the park is home to more than 1,000 birds representing over 250 species within beautifully landscaped enclosures. The grounds are designed to mimic natural habitats and feature a diverse botanical collection, including 52 species of palms, rare jungle fruit trees, cycads, bamboos, and cacti. Three lakes provide homes for various species of water birds, and a total of 60 enclosures showcase the incredible variety of birds the park houses.

Our kids were absolutely enchanted by the colorful birds, many of which they could photograph up close. Scheduled feeding sessions offered a fun way to interact with the birds, adding to the excitement. Their ultimate favorite, however, was the Komodo dragon — a giant lizard native to the neighboring island of Komodo, capable of reaching up to three meters in length and weighing as much as 70 kilograms. Watching it up close was an unforgettable experience for the whole family.








Bali, Legian and around

Legian isn’t as busy as the party hotspot Kuta, nor as posh as Seminyak — we found it the perfect place for a family getaway. We chose to stay at Pullman Legian, a lovely hotel just across the road from the beach. It has two pools: a larger garden pool with some shaded areas, and a rooftop infinity pool with stunning sea views and a cocktail bar.

Our one-bedroom suite was spacious and comfortable. The adults slept in the bedroom, while the kids used the living room sofa and an extra bed we requested. Both rooms opened onto a generous terrace — perfect for morning coffee or evening relaxation. The hotel’s buffet breakfast was excellent, offering a wide variety of choices. We especially enjoyed the daily selection of Balinese dishes — the black rice pudding was unforgettable.

One evening, the hotel organized an open-air cinema on the lawn, complete with big, comfy beanbag seats. The films were family-friendly; we enjoyed watching The BFG under the stars. During our stay in Legian, our focus was simple: relax, enjoy the pools and beach, and sprinkle in a little sightseeing.

The beach right across from the hotel was clean and wide, lined with a few bars. Sunbeds could be rented for the day, and surfing lessons were available for those feeling adventurous. The width of the beach varied with the tides — some days we had a long, leisurely walk to reach the water’s edge.

One of the highlights of our Legian stay was meeting an old friend who now lives in Seminyak. Sharing a cold beer with a familiar face so far from home felt wonderful and added a special touch to our holiday.

Hotel pool


 
Legian beach



Not wanting to spend all our time lounging by the pool, wandering around Kuta, or relaxing on the beach, we decided to venture to Pura Luhur Uluwatu Temple and catch the Kecak dance performance at sunset. Perched atop a cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean at Bali’s southwestern tip, Uluwatu offers breathtaking views — especially as the sun dips below the horizon.

The Kecak dance is a mesmerizing Balinese Hindu performance, traditionally performed by men. Based on the story of the Ramayana, it features a circle of up to 150 performers, rhythmically chanting “chak” while moving their hands and arms in intricate patterns. We arrived well before the show started, which gave us time to stroll around the temple grounds, soak in the scenery, and watch the waves crash dramatically against the cliffs below.

The temple is also home to a mischievous troop of monkeys, who roam freely and are known to snatch belongings from unsuspecting visitors — there are plenty of warning signs! Visitors are required to wear a sarong if wearing shorts or short skirts, and the temple provides them at the entrance.





After seven beautiful, eventful, and busy days in Bali, it was time to return to Singapore. We all fell in love with the island — its lush landscapes, rich culture, and warm, welcoming people left a lasting impression. There was still so much more to explore, and we couldn’t help but wish we had a little more time to uncover all the hidden corners of this magical place. Bali had truly captured our hearts, and we hope to return someday to continue the adventure.

 

Singapore

Back in Singapore, we checked in early at Grand Park Orchard, booking two Premier King rooms, and set out to explore the city. The hotel is conveniently located just off Orchard Road, the city’s main shopping street. While shopping wasn’t our priority, we were eager to discover the many different neighborhoods and facets of this vibrant city.

Probably the easiest way to get around Singapore is by MRT. A standard ticket cost SGD 1.40 and could be recharged for up to six rides — quick, efficient, and perfect for city exploration.

Waiting for the train, Singapore MRT

Our first stop, spurred by hungry bellies, was Chinatown and the famous Maxwell Hawker Center. We were on a mission to try Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, a dish made famous by chef Anthony Bourdain. The queue was long, but well worth the wait. Hawker centers like Maxwell are an excellent way to enjoy cheap, delicious, and authentic food in Singapore — a true culinary adventure in itself.


After a hearty meal, we wandered through Chinatown, exploring its vibrant streets and temples. The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple stands out as the most famous in the area — a beautiful and peaceful center of worship right in the middle of the bustling city. From there, we ventured to Little India, a completely different world, with colorful streets, fragrant markets, and ornate temples that make it feel like stepping into another country entirely.

The Tooth Relic Temple in Chinatown



 
  
The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple in Little India
 

That evening, we returned to Chinatown to enjoy dinner at Chinatown Food Street, a covered avenue packed with food stalls. The variety was overwhelming, and everything we tried was absolutely delicious.





The following day, we spent our time at the Singapore Zoo, consistently ranked among the world’s top zoos. While we usually prefer seeing animals in the wild, the Singapore Zoo is unique and truly impressive. Its enclosures are designed to mimic natural habitats, giving visitors a sense of seeing the animals in the wild.

Visiting the Zoo and the River Safari in six hours meant a lot of walking — there is a small train available, but we managed to cover most of it on foot, though we didn’t have time for the shows. Our kids’ favorites were the dome of Malayan flying foxes, where huge bats flew freely overhead, and the orangutans, who swung gracefully over our heads. It was an unforgettable day full of excitement and wonder.





 





For us, a perfect holiday is one that leaves you with a feeling of not wanting to leave — and that’s exactly how we felt throughout this trip. We didn’t miss home at all and can’t wait to return to Asia for more adventures.

The long 12-hour, 50-minute flight from Singapore back to Zurich brought us back to Europe, which suddenly felt like a completely different world. Looking back, we had a wonderful time, and one thing became clear: our kids are truly fantastic travel companions.

New adventures await, and we’re already dreaming of the next journey…

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