For some time, we had been dreaming about a European city break—just the two of us, without the kids. The perfect opportunity came during the summer holidays in Estonia, when we could leave them with their grandparents. Not wanting to spend too much time flying, we limited our search to direct flights from Tallinn or Riga. Our final choice was Munich, with the added bonus of a possible side trip to Salzburg.
We had visited Germany before—Berlin before we had kids, and Frankfurt (if airport stopovers count)—but Munich, as the capital of Bavaria with its historic old town, felt especially appealing. Traveling during Covid wasn’t an easy decision, but with low infection rates that summer, we decided to take the chance. Even better, my sister and her husband joined us on the trip.
Our flight departed from Riga in the afternoon, but we left Tartu early in the morning. The drive to Riga Airport takes about three and a half hours, and during Covid times, arriving early felt like the safest option. The airport was unusually quiet, with most shops and restaurants closed. Since we arrived well ahead of time, it wasn’t ideal—but thankfully, we still managed to find a place for a quick bite and a coffee.
The 2-hour-and-15-minute Air Baltic flight passed smoothly. We were given disinfectant wipes and masks upon boarding (even though we already had our own), and the plane was only half full. After landing, we took the train from the airport into the city, as our hotel was just a short walk from the central station.
Thanks to the lack of travelers during Covid, we scored an incredible hotel deal. We stayed at the brand-new Premier Inn Munich City Center, only a few minutes from Karlsplatz, for just €39 per night for a double room. The room was modern and comfortable, with a spacious bathroom. Breakfast wasn’t served due to Covid restrictions, but guests could grab a complimentary coffee and croissant from the lobby each morning—a small but appreciated touch.
In Germany, masks were mandatory in all indoor public spaces and on public transport, but otherwise the city felt lively. Museums, bars, restaurants, and markets were all open.
Munich quickly proved to be a wonderful city for exploring on foot. The city center is largely car-free, making it easy and pleasant to wander around. We passed countless inviting restaurants tucked into squares and hidden courtyards, eventually choosing a charming square just behind the Frauenkirche—the iconic twin-towered cathedral—for dinner. As a bonus, Munich turned out to be very vegan-friendly, with plenty of plant-based options available.
On our way to Marienplaz
Our first morning in Munich dawned cloudy, with the promise of rain hanging in the air, so we decided to start the day indoors at the Residenz München. This former Bavarian palace served as the seat of government and royal residence for dukes, electors, and kings from 1508 to 1918. Today, it stands as the largest city palace in Germany and is open to the public as a museum.
The vast complex is made up of ten courtyards and more than 130 rooms, each offering a glimpse into Bavaria’s royal past. We bought our tickets for €9 and began our visit, quickly realizing that we were almost the only visitors there. Wandering through the grand halls in near silence made the experience feel even more special, and it was absolutely worth the time to dive into Bavarian history. Much of the Residenz was destroyed during the Second World War, but since 1945 it has been painstakingly reconstructed to reflect its former grandeur.
No visit to Munich is complete without a stop at the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl, probably the city’s most famous brewery and beer hall. That’s exactly where we went to soak up the classic Bavarian beer hall atmosphere.
The rest of the day was spent wandering through the city, stopping here and there for quick bites or coffee breaks. We especially loved the small Asian food spots—whether it was soup, dumplings, or fluffy bao buns, they were perfect for an easy and tasty snack on the go.
The following morning, we picked up our rental car near the central station and set off toward Salzburg in Austria. The drive took about an hour and a half and turned out to be a highlight in itself, passing scenic landscapes with views of Lake Chiemsee, rolling hills, and the Bavarian Alps in the distance.
Salzburg greeted us as a picture-perfect town set along the Salzach River. It’s best known as the birthplace of Mozart and as one of the filming locations for The Sound of Music, and Mozart’s name truly is everywhere—Mozart Square, Mozart Park, even the Mozart University. We spent some time strolling through the charming old town before heading to lunch at GustaV, a vegan restaurant just a short walk from the center.
Delicious vegan lunch at GustaV
Still craving more nature, we decided to take a small detour on our way back to Munich and headed toward the Königssee area—a true paradise for hikers and nature lovers. Unfortunately, time wasn’t on our side. We didn’t even have the chance for a short hike, as we needed to return the rental car before the office closed at 7 p.m. It was one of those places that instantly goes onto the “next time” list.
For our final evening of the trip, we chose a Lebanese restaurant called Ksara for dinner. The food and service were excellent, and it turned into a truly memorable way to end our journey.
The next morning, Johnny flew back to France, while the rest of us had a late-afternoon flight to Riga. That gave us a few extra hours to enjoy Munich—another relaxed walk through the city center, some last-minute shopping, and one final opportunity to sample local specialties for lunch. We tried Knödel: large, flavorful bread dumplings cooked in stock, filled with beetroot, mushrooms, and mixed vegetables. Let’s just say… trying them once was enough.
It was a wonderful short break spent in great company. We all fell a little bit in love with Munich—a city that feels effortlessly walkable and refreshingly green, with a charming old town, an excellent range of restaurants, and a rich Bavarian beer culture complete with traditional gardens and cellars. Add to that the city’s cleanliness and sense of organization, and it’s easy to see why Munich left such a strong impression on us.
Germany is a country that definitely deserves to be explored more, and this trip only scratched the surface. Next time, we’d love to stay longer, see more—and maybe even bring the kids along.
Molto bello!!!
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