Like with many destinations, I had planned our Sri Lanka itinerary several years ago, thinking it might come in handy one day. First, Covid-19, then local riots, followed by petrol and electricity crises, postponed our trip for a couple of years. When the situation finally seemed stable, we were eager to visit the “Teardrop of India,” a place we had heard so many great things about. This trip would be just the three of us, as Ricardo was busy with university studies.
I found a great Lufthansa offer from Nice to Colombo, with a brief stopover in Germany and a longer layover in India. Although the six-hour stop in India wasn’t ideal, the price was too good to pass up. With two weeks to spare during the French school holidays, I had to carefully plan what to see and what to save for next time. Although Sri Lanka may seem small, it is packed with fascinating destinations—from cultural sites to natural wonders, from beaches to hilly inland areas. We also didn’t want to rush through the trip; after all, it was a holiday, and we wanted some downtime and relaxation.
We left Nice early in the morning, had a brief stop in Frankfurt, and then took a nine-hour flight to Bangalore, India, for the long layover before our final flight to Colombo. I had upgraded our SriLankan Airlines flight to business class, which included lounge access in Bangalore—a lifesaver for passing the long wait more comfortably.
Although the new Bangalore (Bengaluru) airport is modern and impressive, navigating it felt surprisingly old-fashioned in parts. Transferring in India was unlike any other country we’d experienced: multiple checks, long waits, and a final security check that required us to hand-write our names, passport numbers, and destination in a notebook for the officer. The entire process took well over an hour, after which we were finally allowed into the airport transfer zone and the lounge.
Bengaluru airport
The flight from Bengaluru to Colombo was a short hop of just over two hours. We flew SriLankan Airlines on a standard Airbus A320, but the business class experience felt anything but ordinary. The seats were wonderfully spacious—more like plush armchairs than airline seats—and made the journey pleasantly comfortable.
Breakfast was an introduction to local flavors (although also Western choices were available), with an interesting spread to choose from. I went for a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast, which was flavorful and enjoyable, though a little too spicy for me. Still, it felt like the perfect way to begin the trip.
I had arranged e-visas for all of us about a week in advance (USD 50 per person), and the arrival process at Colombo airport couldn’t have been smoother. Immigration was swift and efficient, and before we knew it, we were officially in Sri Lanka.
We had also pre-booked a car to take us straight to Kandy - the City of Kings, Sri Lanka’s second city and the island’s undisputed historical and cultural capital. Before setting off, we picked up a local SIM card at the airport from the Dialog kiosk in the arrivals hall—20 GB of data for about €11.
The drive to Kandy took roughly two and a half hours. Our driver was excellent, sharing stories about life in Sri Lanka along the way. We also made a brief stop to try the country’s famous king coconuts—a refreshing treat and a quick stretch of legs.
Although we arrived at our hotel in Kandy a bit before check-in time, we were pleasantly surprised to find that our room was already ready for us. I had chosen Kandy Hills Hotel for our two-night stay, and it turned out to be a great choice.
The family room was impressively spacious, with a double bed and a large single bed, and the bathroom was equally generous—complete with both a bathtub and a shower. We also had a lovely little terrace, which quickly became a source of entertainment when we spotted monkeys hanging around more than once. A word of warning to future guests: nothing should be left outside, unless you’re happy to donate it to the local monkeys.
Family room at Kandy hills hotel
Exhausted from the journey, we decided to take a short nap before heading out to explore the town. The hotel was located slightly away from Kandy’s hectic center, which made it a peaceful place to unwind, yet it was still easy to get around by tuk-tuk. We relied on an app called PickMe to call tuk-tuks throughout Sri Lanka. The price is fixed in advance, which means no haggling with drivers.
We finally headed into town in the early afternoon, curious to see what Kandy was like and with no real plans in mind. After a short tuk-tuk ride, we set off on foot through the center, soaking up the hustle and bustle—the constant movement, the sounds of traffic and voices, and the mix of unfamiliar smells in the air.
We stopped by a local supermarket and were amazed by the sheer variety of fruits and vegetables on display, many of which we couldn’t even identify. It was a small but fascinating glimpse into everyday life in Sri Lanka.
Vegetable selection at the supermarket
Later, we took a leisurely stroll along the lake, walking as far as the Temple of the Tooth relic. I had planned to visit the temple the following morning during the ceremony, so we didn’t go inside, but it was still lovely to see the surroundings. We ended the day with an early dinner at a vegetarian restaurant called Balaji Dosai, where we enjoyed some excellent dosas.
Kandy Lake
At Balaji Dosai
With a long day ahead of us, we started early, enjoying a tasty breakfast on the hotel terrace while taking in the beautiful views. It felt like the perfect, peaceful beginning to the day.
Breakfast with a view
After breakfast, we made our way to the Temple of the Tooth in time for the ceremony, which began at 9:30 a.m. The temple was crowded—there were tourists, of course, but far more local worshippers for whom this is an important and deeply meaningful place. Many had traveled from different parts of Sri Lanka to be there.
The atmosphere was truly magical. The sound of traditional music and drums filled the air as people brought offerings to the temple, creating a sense of devotion that was impossible not to feel. Shoes are not allowed inside the temple complex, and since the grounds are quite large, we spent the entire visit walking barefoot. Visitors must also dress modestly, with knees and shoulders covered, for both men and women.
The Temple of Tooth Relic
Next on our list was another of Kandy’s famous landmarks: the Royal Botanic Gardens. Although they are a little further from the city center (about 5.5 km), the gardens are absolutely worth the visit.
The gardens are home to more than 4,000 species of plants, including orchids, spices, medicinal plants, and an impressive variety of palm trees. As the grounds are quite extensive, we decided to focus on just a few highlights—the Avenue of Royal Palms, the Spice Garden, the Orchid House, the Cactus House...
Everything was immaculately maintained, with colorful flowers and beautifully manicured greenery at every turn. Nature, however, had a surprise in store for us. While walking back from the Spice Garden toward the main entrance, we spotted a fairly large snake right beside the path. Thankfully, it seemed more scared of us than we were of it and quickly disappeared into the bushes. A quick Google search later revealed that it was a common krait—one of the most venomous snakes in Sri Lanka.
The Royal Botanic Gardens
After such a full day, we headed back to the hotel for a bit of downtime, knowing we wanted to head out again in the evening. Just before sunset, we made our way to the large Buddha statue and temple that can be seen from almost anywhere in Kandy.
Standing at 26.83 meters tall, it is one of the tallest Buddha statues in Sri Lanka. The timing couldn’t have been better—the views from the hilltop were beautiful at sunset, with warm light spreading over the city below and a calm, peaceful atmosphere that felt like the perfect way to end the day.
The next morning, we packed our bags and said goodbye to Kandy, as we were heading off on one of the most scenic train rides in the world—the journey from Kandy to Ella.
Getting tickets for this train can be a bit tricky, as they sell out quickly. I booked ours through the 12Go website, and since physical tickets are required, they were mailed to our hotel for a small additional fee. I would have preferred first class, but in the end our third-class reserved seats worked out just fine. There’s no air conditioning in third class, but with the windows wide open and the cool hill-country air streaming in, it really wasn’t an issue at all.
Our train was scheduled to depart at 11:00 a.m. and arrive in Ella at 4:55 p.m., though we later learned that delays are very common due to the many stops along the way. As expected, we eventually rolled into Ella around 6:30 p.m.
The journey itself was undeniably beautiful. The train winds its way through rolling hills, endless tea plantations, small villages, colorfully decorated stations, and over elegant arched bridges. Along the way, it passes Pattipola—the highest railway station in Sri Lanka—at nearly 1,900 meters above sea level, where the air is noticeably cooler. We even spotted strawberry plantations near the tracks.
One of the unique features of this train ride is that passengers can sit or stand at the open carriage doors (at their own risk, of course), which makes for incredible views and photos. For me, the scenery was stunning, but the journey also felt quite long. Spending over seven hours on the train was a bit too much—I think two or three hours would have been more than enough.
We arrived in Ella—a stunning hill-country escape that perfectly blends adventure, nature, and relaxation—just as evening had settled in. Surrounded by rolling tea plantations, misty mountains, and cascading waterfalls, Ella is an unmissable stop in Sri Lanka. In fact, we wished we had stayed there longer than our two nights, as this charming hill town has an irresistibly laid-back vibe.
We stayed slightly outside the center at a small guesthouse called Shining Green View, and the panoramic views over the valley and surrounding hills were nothing short of incredible. Our triple room came with a spacious terrace, and both dinner and breakfast were included in the stay. After a long and tiring train journey, it was a real treat to enjoy dinner on the terrace, soaking in the peaceful scenery before drifting into a well-deserved sleep.
The room at Shining Green View
View from our bedroom terrace
Once again, a busy day lay ahead of us, so we woke up early to make the most of it. Even without air conditioning, we slept wonderfully thanks to the cool mountain air. After a hearty breakfast, we felt refreshed and ready to start the day.
Our first plan was a hike—Ella is, after all, famous for its scenic walking trails. We chose to tackle Little Adam’s Peak and ordered a tuk-tuk to take us to the trailhead. The hike itself was fairly easy: a pleasant walk through lush tea plantations followed by a slightly steeper ascent—partly made up of stairs—leading to the summit. The views were incredible the entire way, making every step well worth the effort.
Little Adam's Peak
Our next stop took us a little further from Ella to the Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory. Sri Lanka has a long and fascinating history of tea production, and even today it remains one of the world’s largest tea producers. We were excited to wander through the tea plantation and learn more about the delicate art of tea plucking.
Located about 6 kilometers from Ella at an altitude of 1,230 meters, Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory sits in the heart of the Uva region. Established in 1940, it has grown to become the largest tea producer in the area. During the tour, we first learned about the history of tea drinking and the factory’s operations before being handed baskets to try our hand at tea picking ourselves—a surprisingly interesting experience.
The tour concluded with a tea tasting, where we sampled several local varieties to choose our favorite. Without hesitation, we all agreed that the green tea with soursop was the standout and bought a couple packets of it to bring home.
Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory
After such an eventful first half of the day, we had definitely earned a good meal. Ella is full of cozy cafés and inviting little eateries, so we picked one more or less at random—drawn in by its charming upstairs seating and views over the lively street below.
Food was one of the true highlights of our trip to Sri Lanka. We loved the incredible variety of fruits and vegetables, along with staples like curries, dahls, and, of course, kottu roti. Kottu quickly became one of our favorite dishes, and this time was no exception. We enjoyed it at a lovely spot called 360° Ella, the perfect place to refuel while soaking in the town’s vibrant atmosphere.
We still had one short hike planned before calling it a day. One of Ella’s most iconic landmarks is the Nine Arches Railway Bridge, and we couldn’t leave without seeing it for ourselves. A short walk—about a kilometer—led us along a peaceful forest path to the bridge.
When we finally reached it, the sight was truly impressive. Framed by lush greenery and gentle curves, the Nine Arches Bridge felt both grand and serene, and it was absolutely worth the visit.
Lipton’s Seat is a famous viewpoint named after Thomas Lipton, the Scottish businessman who moved to British Ceylon in 1890. After meeting James Taylor, the pioneer of Ceylon tea, Lipton played a key role in introducing tea gardens to the country. This very spot is where he would reportedly sit, cup of tea in hand, admiring the vast estates he helped create.
Today, Lipton’s Seat remains one of the most impressive lookouts in the region. From the viewpoint, you’re rewarded with sweeping panoramas of rolling, emerald-green tea plantations stretching into the distance. There’s even a life-sized statue of Lipton seated on a bench, making it a popular place for photos.
Reaching the viewpoint, however, is part of the adventure. From the nearest village, it’s about a 40-minute tuk-tuk ride uphill through the tea plantations. The road is far too steep and narrow for cars, so our driver stayed behind, arranged a tuk-tuk for us, and waited for our return. The effort was more than worth it: the views were breathtaking, and on a clear day it’s said you can see across the hills and tea estates into no fewer than seven different provinces.
Towering at 220 metres, Diyaluma Falls is Sri Lanka’s second-tallest waterfall and a truly breathtaking spectacle of nature. It’s possible to spend an entire day here, hiking roughly two hours to the top and cooling off in the natural rock pools. We chose a slower pace, admiring the falls from below and soaking in their sheer power and beauty from a distance.
To explore Sri Lanka’s most famous national park, Yala National Park, we chose to stay at one of the closest hotels to the entrance: Cinnamon Wild. Set beside a lake, the hotel is made up of individual bungalows that blend seamlessly into the surrounding wilderness.
With no fences separating the hotel from the park, wildlife occasionally wanders through the grounds. For safety reasons, guests are accompanied by a guide after dark—whether heading to dinner at the restaurant or strolling back to their bungalow—which only adds to the sense of adventure. We arrived in the afternoon, and the wildlife encounters began almost immediately. While taking a dip in the pool, we spotted langurs, lizards, and squirrels darting around the area. Later, during a walk by the lake, we were even lucky enough to see crocodiles resting in the water.
Despite its wild setting, the hotel itself was beautiful and thoughtfully designed, offering a perfect balance between being immersed in nature and enjoying a touch of luxury. We stayed for two nights, with both breakfast and dinner included, making it an ideal base for our Yala safari experience.
Animals around the hotel
Hotel pool
At Yala National Park, it is possible choose between a half-day or a full-day safari. We opted for the full-day experience to maximize our chances of seeing wildlife—and it turned out to be a long but incredibly adventurous day. I had booked the safari with a company called Janaka Safari, and they picked us up from the hotel at 5 a.m. so we could arrive at the park gate right at opening time, 6 a.m.
We joined a shared jeep safari, with six people in total: the three of us, a German couple, and our guide and driver, Su. From the very start, the day was packed with sightings. We saw countless birds, as well as elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, deer, mongooses, and—one of the highlights of the entire trip—a leopard casually crossing the road just a short distance from our jeep.
The full-day safari includes a two-hour break around lunchtime, which gives both visitors and animals a much-needed pause. Breakfast and lunch were included in the package: breakfast was served on the go in the jeep, while lunch was enjoyed as a picnic during the midday break. We spent this time at a stunning beach within the park’s boundaries, stretching our legs and soaking in the scenery. After hours of bouncing along dusty tracks, the break was welcome—not just for us, but also for the wildlife, which benefits from a temporary lull in the constant stream of safari vehicles.
The end of the safari with our guide Su
After a wonderful week spent discovering the rolling hills and culture-rich heart of Sri Lanka, it was time to shift gears and head toward another part of the island — the beaches Sri Lanka is so famous for.
Our first stop along the southern coast was Villa Lyvie Ayurvedic Hotel in Tangalle, where we settled in for two relaxing nights. Tucked away just a short walk from the beach, Villa Lyvie is a charming boutique hotel surrounded by a lush, tropical garden. The property is run by a French mother-and-daughter duo, giving it an intimate and welcoming feel from the moment we arrived.
One of the highlights of our stay was the hotel’s Ayurvedic offerings. From soothing massages to traditional treatments, we all took the opportunity to indulge — the perfect way to unwind as we eased into the beach phase of our journey.
Our triple room at Villa Lyvie
With hardly anyone else around, we spent our time wandering along the shore, soaking in the views and the sense of solitude. As the sun began to dip, we sat down at a small beach bar, the perfect spot to pause for the evening. There, with the sky glowing in sunset colors, we enjoyed a simple curry and freshly made roti.
After sunset, we made our way to the Turtle Watch Rekawa sanctuary, hoping for the chance to witness sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs. Even though it was the right season, sightings are never guaranteed. That night, however, we were incredibly lucky — we watched not one, but two turtles make their way onto the sand to nest.
We headed to the beach in a small group of around ten people, accompanied by a guide who carried a red-light torch, used so as not to disturb the turtles. All other lights were strictly forbidden — even phone screens — and we were asked to remain completely quiet. Standing there in near darkness, listening to the waves and watching these ancient creatures, felt like a rare and deeply moving privilege.
Small but stunning, Goyambokka felt like a hidden gem. The waves here were much gentler than at Rekawa the day before, making it perfect for a laid-back beach day. We claimed sunbeds from a nearby beach bar, sipped fresh coconut water straight from the shell, swam in the warm sea, and lounged in the sun. A late lunch at one of the beachfront restaurants rounded things off perfectly — simple, delicious, and unhurried.
As evening approached, we took a leisurely walk to the neighboring Silent Beach. Just as beautiful and true to its name, it offered the perfect setting to watch the sun sink into the horizon — a calm, golden end to a truly relaxing day.
Goyambokka Beach
Silent beach
We truly loved our time in Tangalle and found ourselves wishing we could have stayed longer. It was the definition of a relaxing beach destination — the kind of place where time slows down and unwinding comes naturally. But soon enough, it was time to pack our bags once more and continue along the coast to our next stop: Mirissa.
One of Sri Lanka’s best-known beach destinations, Mirissa is noticeably busier than Tangalle, yet it still manages to retain a laid-back, welcoming vibe. I had booked us for three nights at Handagedara Hotel, where the family room for the three of us turned out to be comfortable and spacious. The hotel also featured a lovely pool — ideal for lazy afternoon dips — and the famous Mirissa Beach was just a short walk away, making it an easy and enjoyable base for our stay.
View from our bedroom terrace
On our first evening in Mirissa, we set out to catch the sunset at the famous Secret Beach. When we arrived, however, it quickly became clear that it wasn’t quite so secret anymore. The small stretch of beach was dotted with Instagrammers and influencers, all vying for the perfect sunset shot. It didn’t take us long to realize that this wasn’t our kind of place. Rather than soaking in the moment, the atmosphere felt more staged than serene — so we quietly decided to move on.
We had an early start the next morning, heading out before dawn for a whale-watching tour with Whale Watching Club. The meeting time at the harbour was 6 a.m., but luckily the pier was just a short walk from our hotel. We arrived early and, since seating on the boat was first come, first served, we managed to claim front-row spots on the upper deck.
The boat filled up quickly and soon we were the first to glide out of the harbour. As the sun began to rise, casting a warm golden glow over the water, breakfast was served—tea or coffee, sandwiches, and fresh fruit. Sailing out at sunrise was magical, and it was fascinating to watch the small fishing boats returning with their morning catch, heading back to the harbour to sell the fish.
Of course, whale sightings can never be guaranteed, but February is peak season along Sri Lanka’s southern coast, so our chances were good. Before long, we were surrounded by playful dolphins swimming alongside the boat on several occasions. We also spotted a couple of sea turtles, and just when we thought the tour was coming to an end, a fin whale appeared surprisingly close to the boat.
We spent around half an hour observing the whale as it disappeared beneath the surface and re-emerged, sending powerful sprays of water into the air. Our boat, like a few others, kept a respectful distance so as not to disturb the animal—something that unfortunately couldn’t be said for two of the boats that seemed intent on chasing the whale every time it surfaced.
All in all, it was a wonderful morning on the water. The crew were fantastic, sharing stories, showing informative pictures, and explaining more about the animals we encountered. On the way back to shore, we were treated to another snack of roti and dhal, the perfect ending to an unforgettable experience at sea.
After such an early start to the day, we decided to spend the afternoon taking it easy—lounging by the hotel pool and treating ourselves to another massage. Mirissa is dotted with small massage parlours, but since there were three of us, we were looking for a place that could accommodate us all at the same time. We ended up choosing Ama Ayurvedic Spa more or less at random, mainly because it was close to our hotel. The massage was decent, though we all agreed that the one we’d had in Tangalle was noticeably better.
That evening, we headed out for a stroll and drinks along the famous Mirissa Beach. The beachfront is lined with seafood restaurants, their displays piled high with incredibly fresh fish and seafood—you can choose your own catch and have it cooked to order. We had already eaten dinner by then, but it was easy to tell this was a place worth returning to, so we made a mental note to come back the following night.
The next morning, Johnny and I woke up early once again. After watching the fishermen return from the sea the day before, we decided to go for a walk and visit the fish market at the port before heading back to the hotel for breakfast.
The market was vibrant and exactly what you’d imagine it to be—colourful, noisy, and full of life. Fishermen called out to potential buyers, proudly showing off their catch, while the air buzzed with conversation, laughter, and negotiation. The smells of the sea were strong and unmistakable, and the freshly caught fish lined the counters, glistening in the early morning light.
As Sri Lanka is also a well-known surf destination, Martin had expressed his wish to try surfing at some point during our holiday. The country’s biggest surf town, Weligama, is just a short tuk-tuk ride from Mirissa and is known for being especially beginner-friendly. The beach there is long and wide, with gentle, rolling waves that are perfect for learning to surf.
The beachfront is lined with surf schools, and we chose Yaka Surf Club for a private session for Martin. The lesson started with a warm-up and a rundown of the basics on dry land, followed by about an hour and a half in the water with an instructor. Martin had a great teacher, and before long he was standing up on the board. He absolutely loved the experience.
While Martin was out in the waves, Johnny and I made the most of the beautiful beach—swimming in the sea, wandering along the shore, and relaxing on sunbeds, soaking up the laid-back atmosphere of Weligama.
That evening, we headed back to Mirissa Beach for a relaxed dinner right by the water. It was our last night on the coast, and we were consciously soaking up the wonderfully laid-back beachside vibe before heading to the capital, Colombo, the following morning. The tide was especially high that evening, and every now and then a wave crept all the way up to our table, brushing against our toes as we ate—a perfect, memorable farewell to the coast.
The next morning, Johnny and I woke up early once again to catch the sunrise on the beach. After one last walk along the shore, we headed back to the hotel to pack our bags and begin the nearly three-hour journey to Colombo.
Wanting to end our holiday with a touch of luxury, we chose the Sheraton Colombo for our final night in Sri Lanka—and it exceeded our expectations. Our room was spacious and offered stunning views over the city, and we also had access to the top-floor lounge, where we enjoyed drinks and snacks alongside even more beautiful panoramic views.
Our bedroom and bathroom at Sheraton Colombo
View from our room
The lounge
Colombo is a busy and vibrant city, and we were glad we’d decided to spend a day there—despite the fact that many travel blogs and forums advise skipping it. We took a tuk-tuk to the market area and wandered around, soaking in the constant hustle and bustle: the crowds, the architecture, the energy of everyday life unfolding all around us.
In the evening, we walked over to Galle Face Green, an oceanside urban park, where we sampled street food from the many stalls lining the promenade. Locals were out enjoying the evening air—families picnicking, couples strolling, and friends gathering as the sun set over the Indian Ocean.
The next morning, we still had time for some last-minute shopping at Galle Face Mall before heading to the airport and beginning our journey home. Sri Lanka turned out to be yet another country we were incredibly happy to discover. It truly exceeded our expectations, offering such an impressive variety of experiences—from hiking and culture to beaches and wildlife. It also joined the ever-growing list of places we know we want to return to one day, as there was simply so much more we didn’t have time to see.
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