We had been dreaming about visiting Costa Rica for a while, drawn by stories of its incredible natural beauty. So when I stumbled upon a good Lufthansa deal to San Jose, our next holiday destination was decided. As we planned the trip and realized how much there is to see, I decided to skip the Caribbean coast this time (though it’s undoubtedly stunning) and focus on the central region and the Pacific coast. We also had to adjust our budget a bit—Costa Rica, largely catering to American tourists, is noticeably more expensive than Asia.
Getting to San Jose meant taking three flights, with a stopover in Toronto. Even though we wouldn’t be leaving the airport, we still needed an ETA for Canada. Applying online was quick and easy, and we received approval in about 30 minutes.
Ready to go: Frankfurt - Toronto
The flight from Frankfurt to Toronto took eight and a half hours, leaving us pretty tired on arrival. The kids were excited to spot the CN Tower as we approached Toronto airport, but with only an hour between flights, the next leg—a five-and-a-half-hour flight to San Jose—was exhausting. In hindsight, a longer stopover in Toronto would have been much better. The Air Canada flight itself was disappointing: the plane was dirty, seats uncomfortable, and there were no entertainment screens for such a long journey. Definitely not a company we’d choose again.
Arriving in San Jose at 9:30 p.m., we were greeted by a warm tropical breeze. Passports stamped, luggage collected, and some local colones exchanged (1 EUR ≈ 750 CRC), we were ready to start our adventure. The colones are beautifully colorful, featuring illustrations of native animals. U.S. dollars are widely accepted in tourist areas, and we had brought some from France.
Since it was late, I had booked a B&B near the airport for our first night. Casa Maria Aeropuerto was a clean, basic guesthouse about ten minutes by taxi. Our room had two double beds and a bathroom. We collapsed into bed immediately, only to wake at 4 a.m. from jet lag—the seven-hour difference with France hitting hard. Traveling east to west works better for us though: we naturally wake early and gradually adjust our schedule, feeling tired around 8–9 p.m.
By 5:30 a.m., the sun was rising, and we went for a walk around the gated community of Casa Maria. The chorus of birdsong was mesmerizing. Breakfast at 7 a.m. on the terrace was a perfect introduction to Costa Rican cuisine: excellent coffee (we soon learned it was always this good), fresh fruit, fried plantain, and gallo pinto, the country’s classic breakfast dish of seasoned rice and black beans. We would enjoy it nearly every morning during our trip.
To explore Costa Rica independently, we decided to rent a car. After researching extensively, two local companies stood out: Wild Rider and Vamos. We chose Wild Rider and were very happy with their service. Since we planned to visit national parks and hike, a 4x4 was essential, so we rented a SsangYong Korando. Mandatory liability insurance is included with every rental, which raises the cost, and we paid a little over €800 for the car. The vehicle was delivered to Casa Maria at 7:30 a.m., allowing us to start our drive toward La Fortuna without delay.
Costa Ricans are incredibly proud of their country’s natural heritage. This small nation holds 5% of the world’s land-based biodiversity and 3.5% of its marine life. Nearly 93% of Costa Rica’s electricity comes from renewable sources, and 30% of its territory is protected natural land (source: VisitCostaRica). It was this rich environment and biodiversity that had us so eager to explore the country firsthand.
La Fortuna and around
Our first destination was the small town of La Fortuna, nestled in the Northern Highlands of Costa Rica. La Fortuna has become a popular tourist hub, thanks to the wide variety of activities on offer, from hiking and waterfalls to hot springs and wildlife encounters.
The drive from Alajuela, near the airport, to La Fortuna is only 115 km, but it takes almost three hours. The roads are narrow and winding, and we made a couple of stops along the way to stretch our legs and take in the stunning scenery—the further we got from the capital, the more breathtaking the views became. One stop was at a small roadside café for coffee and a snack. Here, the kids discovered a new favorite drink: soursop juice, tangy, sweet, and very refreshing.
Coffee and soursop juice
We had chosen to stay in the middle of nature at Chachagua Rainforest Eco Lodge, about 20 km from La Fortuna. Tucked away at the end of a dirt road, the lodge required driving through a small river to reach the parking lot near our bungalow—another reason our 4x4 rental was perfect. The lodge consists of a main building with guest rooms and several bungalows for those seeking more privacy.
We stayed in the family bungalow, which was spacious, with two double beds, a good-sized bathroom, and a terrace overlooking the rainforest. The moment we checked in, the kids spotted toucans perched in the large trees near the reception, followed by a parade of colorful hummingbirds flitting through the gardens behind our bungalow.
Eager to explore, we took a short walk on the nearby trails and were thrilled to see a green iguana and several vultures—nature was truly on our doorstep. The lodge also has a swimming pool and jacuzzi, and the kids couldn’t resist a quick dip before we headed into town. It was the perfect first introduction to the lush, vibrant beauty of Costa Rica.
Hotel gardens
Who can spot an iguana?
Looking for hummingbirds
Relaxing in the jacuzzi
The terrace of our bungalow
One of the hiking trails around the hotel
Eager to explore, we left the lodge to check out the town of La Fortuna and grab a bite to eat. Despite its popularity with tourists, La Fortuna still feels like a small town. Near the center, we stumbled upon a little soda—the local name for simple, family-run restaurants—and decided to try some traditional food. Sodas serve straightforward, hearty meals, and the main dish is called casado, which usually includes a little bit of everything. While casado can be served with meat, I opted for a vegetarian version, and it was delicious.
Veggie casado
The next morning, we woke early and sat on the terrace, soaking in the sounds of the rainforest. Soon, we spotted a black animal near the river—a tayra, a member of the weasel family native to Central and South America. Breakfast at the hotel opened at 7 a.m., and we grabbed a quick bite before heading into La Fortuna for our river float trip on the Penas Blancas River, scheduled for 7:30.
La Fortuna offers an impressive variety of activities. Thrill-seekers can enjoy ziplining or white-water rafting, while nature lovers can explore hikes and boat rides. Although we experienced some rain during our stay, February is considered the dry season, and the river was calm enough for a river float safari. This two-hour adventure involves drifting down the river in a rubber boat—no engines are used to avoid disturbing wildlife—while spotting the animals along the way. We had booked our trip through a company called Anywhere, and their service was excellent.
The meeting point was at Anywhere’s office in the center of La Fortuna, where we could park our car. A van then took us about 20 minutes to the river’s starting point. By the riverside, our group was divided into two boats, six people plus a guide per boat. We shared our boat with a friendly American couple, and our guide was fantastic—funny, knowledgeable, and full of insights about the plants, birds, and animals we might see. He did warn us that wildlife sightings often come down to luck, but we were in for a treat.
The river was alive with wildlife. We spotted kingfishers and herons, iguanas, a coati, several troops of howler monkeys (one troop even crossing the river in the trees right above us), a sloth, capuchin monkeys, and even several species of bats. It was an unforgettable experience, drifting quietly through the rainforest, surrounded by the sights and sounds of Costa Rica’s incredible biodiversity.
Howler monkeys on the trees
Capuchin monkey
An iguana
Herons
Our tour wasn’t over yet. Next, we visited a small chocolate farm, where we had a tasting session and learned how chocolate is made—from bean to bar. The kids were especially fascinated by the little feeding platforms attached to the trees, where birds and lizards came by to snack on fruit.
Roasted and fermented cocoa beans
Johnny opening a cocoa fruit
Feeding platform for birds and lizards
The tour finished back in La Fortuna around 12:30 p.m., leaving us with the whole afternoon for another adventure. Unfortunately, the rain had started, so we decided to have lunch first. La Fortuna is dotted with charming little eateries, and we chose a Mexican spot called Spectacolar Cantina. Their vegetarian tacos and burritos were absolutely delicious—a perfect pick-me-up before heading back into the wet weather.
Despite the drizzle, we stuck to our plan and went hiking the Arenal 1968 Trail, a historic trail that passes through lava fields from the volcano’s famous eruption. The visitor center and parking lot are about 25 minutes by car from La Fortuna, and the trail starts there. We hiked the main 4.7 km loop. While the trail sometimes offers incredible views of Arenal Volcano, it was hidden behind clouds that day, adding a mysterious atmosphere to the hike.
The trail begins in the forest, gradually rising and weaving through volcanic boulders of all sizes. Along the way, we passed Lago Los Patos, a lake formed during the eruptions. I’d rate the hike as moderately difficult: there are some steep sections and plenty of roots and rocks to navigate, and it was quite muddy after the rain. Our kids, accustomed to hiking, handled it easily. While we didn’t spot any large animals, we saw plenty of birds and fascinating insects, including industrious leaf-cutter ants working their way through the forest.
Passerinis tanagers, beautiful red and black birds
At the top viewpoint, Arenal Volcano covered by clouds Lago los Patos
On our way down it rained quite heavily at one point, so we wore our raincoats
Leaf cutter ants
It had been a long, full day—exactly the kind we love on our long-haul holidays. After picking up some snacks and a few local Imperial beers from a supermarket in La Fortuna, we enjoyed a little aperitivo on our terrace before turning in for the night.
The next morning, we had more time to savor breakfast at the hotel. The dining area was open on three sides, offering panoramic views of the surrounding rainforest. Breakfast was simple but satisfying: gallo pinto, fried plantains, fresh tropical fruits like pineapple, papaya, watermelon, melon, and small bananas, along with pancakes, toast, eggs, and sausages, all served buffet-style. Toucans perched just outside the restaurant, joining us in the morning, and we also spotted the stunning blue morpho butterflies, some of the largest butterflies in the world, fluttering gracefully through the gardens.
Toucans having their breakfast while we were having ours
After an active day, we decided it was time to relax at the Tabacón Hot Springs, fed directly by the Arenal Volcano. The natural thermal waters flow through cascades and waterfalls into a series of pools surrounded by lush gardens, home to more than 500 species of plants, flowers, and trees. The resort itself is a luxury property, but the springs remain completely natural, with water flowing by gravity from the river throughout the property into the pools. Temperatures reach up to 38°C, making it the perfect way to soothe tired muscles after a day of hiking.
We opted for a half-day thermal springs package that included a buffet lunch. The area is expansive, with multiple large and small pools, waterfalls, and even a swimming pool with sunbeds and a swim-up bar. Water shoes are essential, as the natural riverbeds can be slippery or rocky. It’s worth booking in advance, as the resort limits daily passes to avoid overcrowding. Spending a few hours there, soaking in warm, mineral-rich water surrounded by the sounds and sights of the rainforest, was pure bliss—a perfect counterpoint to our adventurous days.
The buffet lunch at Tabacón was simple but very satisfying. While the selection wasn’t huge, everything was fresh, tasty, and of excellent quality. The restaurant’s large terrace overlooked the spa pools, making it the perfect spot to enjoy our meal after a relaxing soak in the warm, mineral-rich waters.
On our drive back from Tabacón, the kids spotted a sloth hanging lazily from a tree by the side of the road—a classic Costa Rican moment that got everyone excited!
We had originally planned to visit the hanging bridges hiking trail, but the rain was coming down harder by the minute. The trails would have been slippery and unsafe, so we made a last-minute change. On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at an organic chocolate farm called the Rainforest Chocolate Tour. It was a fantastic hands-on experience, showing us how cocoa fruit is transformed into chocolate, and it ended with a delicious tasting session. The farm also had a variety of other tropical trees, turning the visit into a mini botanic lesson—fun, educational, and delicious all at once.
Cocoa tree fruit - when ripe it becomes red or yellow
Grinding cocoa beans into paste
It had been a rainy day, but that didn’t stop the kids from wanting to go frog hunting around the hotel grounds. The hotel kindly lent us torches and even wellies, since it was dark and muddy outside. Martin and I stayed close to the lodge, while Ricardo and Johnny ventured down a small path into the forest. At night, the jungle came alive with an incredible array of sounds, making the adventure even more magical. The kids were on a mission to spot the red-eyed green tree frog, but while we didn’t see any, we were thrilled to encounter several other frogs, including a rare glass frog.
The next morning, before breakfast, Johnny and Ricardo went for another short hike. They made it to a massive ceiba tree and even encountered a troop of capuchin monkeys along the way. I stayed behind in our bungalow to pack, as it was time to leave the highlands and head toward the Pacific coast—another chapter of our Costa Rican adventure awaited.
Pacific coast - Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio and around
Our first stop on the Costa Rican Pacific coast was the town of Jaco, a popular surf destination known for its four-kilometer-long beach. The drive from La Fortuna to Jaco is 152 km, but it took us over three and a half hours—Costa Rican roads are narrow and winding, and travel is never quite fast. As we descended from the highlands, the temperature climbed sharply: it was a pleasant 26–27°C in La Fortuna, and nearly 40°C by the time we arrived at Jaco.
On the way, we made a quick stop at the Crocodile Bridge, about half an hour from Jaco, spanning the Tarcoles River. This spot is famous for its American crocodiles, often seen lounging under the bridge. The Tarcoles River is considered one of the densest crocodile habitats in the world—a thrilling and slightly intimidating sight!
We had booked a stay at a small boutique hotel just outside Jaco called Hotel Pumilio, and it turned out to be an absolute gem. With only ten rooms, each with its own outdoor space—either a terrace or patio with a full outdoor kitchen—the hotel felt private and peaceful. Our ground-floor room had a lovely patio with direct access to the pool. The room was spacious, featuring two double beds, an extra single bed, and a generous bathroom. With the heat outside, the kids couldn’t wait to jump into the pool, while we were eager to explore Jaco beach and find something to eat.
Iguana on the hotel grounds
We started with a meal at a vibrant, colorful Mexican restaurant in town before heading to the beach just in time for sunset. The sand on Jaco Beach is dark, and although the beach was fairly crowded, the atmosphere was magical. Watching the sun dip below the horizon over the Pacific was a perfect introduction to Costa Rica’s coastal charm.
The next morning, I woke up early, around 6 a.m., and headed straight to the terrace. The outdoor kitchen was perfect—equipped with a coffee machine and some excellent Costa Rican coffee. I poured myself a mug and watched as the world around me slowly came to life: birds flitted through the trees, iguanas basked in the sun, and lizards even ran across the surface of the pool.
Breakfast at Hotel Pumilio was equally delightful. Alongside local classics like gallo pinto and fried plantain, they served tamales—cornmeal porridge with a flavorful filling, wrapped in banana leaves. The kids were in heaven with freshly made pancakes, waffles, and omelettes, prepared by a kind local lady who added a personal touch to every dish.
After breakfast, we set off for a full day of adventure in Carara National Park. Covering over 5,200 hectares, only a small portion is open to visitors. What makes Carara so unique is its location: it’s where the Amazonian and Mesoamerican ecosystems converge, blending the dry Pacific north with the humid southern coast to create a rich, diverse biological reserve.
To get the most out of our visit, we hired a guide at the park entrance. Andre, our guide, suggested driving a little further to a smaller entrance about a kilometer away, where the trails were wilder and sightings of wildlife more likely. He pointed out countless birds and insects, teaching us to listen carefully to the unique calls of each species. Andre even brought a tripod with a zoom attachment for our phone, letting us observe animals up close and capture some amazing photos.
We were lucky enough to spot a rare white ghost bat, other bat species, several troops of capuchin monkeys, a stunning variety of birds, and massive ceiba trees. The hike was challenging in the 35°C heat, but every step was worth it—the thrill of seeing wildlife up close and immersing ourselves in the rainforest made it an unforgettable experience.
The hike had worked up quite an appetite, so on the way back to the hotel we stopped at a small local supermarket and picked up some pasta and sauce to cook in our outdoor kitchen. The afternoon was blissfully relaxing—swimming in the pool, soaking up the sun, and enjoying the peaceful hotel surroundings.
In the evening, we took a drive around the area and visited Playa Hermosa. While walking along the beach, we were thrilled to see scarlet macaws flying overhead multiple times. These magnificent birds are sadly endangered, but the Pacific coast of Costa Rica is one of the few places where they can still be spotted in the wild.
Playa Hermosa
The next morning, it was time to pack up again and head south toward Manuel Antonio. On the way, we decided to make a small detour north to a village called Tarcoles, hoping to catch a glimpse of more scarlet macaws. While the macaws eluded us this time, we stumbled upon a charming, off-the-beaten-path fishing village. The fishermen had just returned from the sea with their morning catch, and the atmosphere was delightfully authentic, completely free of tourists. It was one of those unexpected, magical stops that make travel so rewarding.
The drive from Jacó to Manuel Antonio is only about 70 km, but it takes well over an hour. We weren’t in a rush, though—we wanted to soak in the views along the way. About halfway there, we decided to leave the main road and head toward the beach, hoping to find a small café for a coffee. We didn’t find a café, but we stumbled upon something even better: an incredible, untouched beach. Long, wide, wild, and completely empty—our GPS said it was called Playa Bejuco. It felt like stepping into paradise.
As we approached Quepos, the nearest town to Manuel Antonio National Park, the scenery changed. The lush jungles that had lined the roads gave way to endless rows of palm trees—palm oil plantations stretching as far as the eye could see. It was heartbreaking. Ecosystems that had taken millions of years to evolve were being replaced, and many species, once common in Costa Rica, like squirrel monkeys, are now becoming rare because their habitats are disappearing.
We were staying at Villas Lirio, a hotel tucked between Quepos and Manuel Antonio. The property was spacious, with two swimming pools and charming pathways connecting different sections. Each room had its own little patio, and ours was roomy with two double beds, plus a separate area with wardrobes and a desk. Best of all, it was right next to the main pool—a paradise for the kids. We spent a lot of our time there, enjoying the pool surrounded by lush gardens. Wildlife wasn’t hard to spot either: capuchin monkeys swung through the trees, toucans called from above, and we even spotted scarlet macaws on more than one occasion.
Just outside the hotel, there was a nice selection of places to eat, and for dinner we enjoyed a delicious casado at a little soda—a cozy, local eatery. Breakfast at the hotel was classic Costa Rican fare: gallo pinto, fried plantains, and all the usual favorites.
A quick swim before bed
We were up early, eager to visit one of Costa Rica’s main attractions: Manuel Antonio National Park. The park is famous for its three stunning beaches, easy forest trails, and dense rainforest teeming with wildlife. In 2011, Forbes named it one of the world’s most beautiful national parks. Though it’s Costa Rica’s smallest national park, covering just 6.83 km², the diversity of wildlife is unmatched, with 109 species of mammals and 184 species of birds.
The entrance was crowded, but once we stepped inside, we decided to avoid the main tourist trail and explore the smaller paths instead. We first headed inland toward a waterfall, which was dry due to the season, and then made our way to the beaches. We followed the seaside trail and ended with a walk through the mangroves. It was a long and hot day, but completely worth it for all the wildlife we encountered.
Exploring the park felt like playing a game of hide-and-seek: listening to the forest sounds, scanning the trees, and spotting animals going about their lives. We saw anteaters, sloths, capuchin monkeys, raccoons, deer, agoutis, iguanas, crabs, and frogs. The beaches within the park were breathtaking, only accessible on foot, making them feel wonderfully secluded despite the park’s popularity.
A small hermit crab
Tree frog camouflage
That evening, despite being exhausted, we couldn’t resist heading out to catch the sunset at Manuel Antonio Beach. It was lively and full of energy, with plenty of bars and restaurants lining the shore and people enjoying the warm evening air. As the sun dipped into the ocean, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink, it felt like the perfect way to end a long day.
As if a full day of hiking in Manuel Antonio National Park hadn’t been enough, we decided to lace up our hiking shoes again the very next day. Our destination was Nauyaca Waterfalls, often considered among the most beautiful waterfalls in Costa Rica. They’re located about 55 km from Quepos, roughly a 50-minute drive from Manuel Antonio.
Nauyaca Falls consist of two main cascades: the upper and lower falls. The upper falls plunge an impressive 45 meters, offering breathtaking views from above. The lower falls are a tiered 20-meter waterfall, with a deep natural pool—about six meters deep—perfect for swimming. Surrounded by large rocks to sit on, it was an ideal spot to rest and cool off. The water was wonderfully refreshing, especially after the hike.
The trail from the car park to the waterfalls is about 4 km long and winds mostly through the rainforest. The heat made the hike challenging at times, but reaching the falls made every step worth it.
Upper falls
After the hike, we hopped in the car and drove to the nearest beach town, Playa Dominical, for lunch. Famous for its surf culture, the town had a laid-back vibe and was packed with cool little restaurants. We chose El Pescado Loco—and it did not disappoint. Their fish tacos were, without a doubt, the best I’ve ever had.
That evening marked our final night on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast. The next morning, we set off toward the capital, San José, where we’d spend our last night in the country. The drive from Manuel Antonio took just over three hours, and instead of the main highway, we opted for the 107-kilometer scenic route winding through the hills. Much of it was unpaved, but that only added to the adventure. We went long stretches without seeing another car, surrounded by sweeping views that made the journey just as memorable as the destination.
Pineapple plantations by the side of the road
Amazing views
Coffee break in a little soda
Our car on the dirt road that lasted for almost 70 kilometers
As we approached San José, the traffic grew noticeably more hectic. Many travel guides suggest skipping the capital altogether, but we decided to see it for ourselves. We stayed right in the city center at the Park Inn by Radisson, and thanks to the chaotic traffic, we quickly realized the best way to explore was on foot. After parking the car at the hotel, we set out to discover San José at street level.
The weather in the capital felt refreshingly cooler, likely due to its elevation at 1,172 meters above sea level. San José is often considered one of the safer and less violent cities in Latin America, and the strong police presence—especially along the main pedestrian street—was hard to miss. One officer even stopped to chat with us and kindly suggested I remove my gold necklace and earrings, just to be on the safe side.
We wandered through the lively Mercado Central, where we picked up some tamales, and spent the rest of the afternoon strolling through the city center. While San José may not be overflowing with must-see attractions, it does have its charm, with several beautiful colonial buildings clustered around the main square.
City center - San Jose
Mercado Central
On our final morning in Costa Rica, we enjoyed one last gallo pinto for breakfast at the hotel and felt that familiar reluctance to leave. There was still so much left to explore in this small yet incredibly diverse and beautiful country. Our journey home took us through Panama, then Frankfurt, and finally Nice—but Costa Rica is a place we know we’ll return to.
PURA VIDA. 🌿
