Thursday, June 4, 2026

Peru, October 16. - 29.2025

South America was a completely new continent for us—we had never been there before. Peru, with Machu Picchu, had long been on our bucket list, and we felt it was finally time to explore the continent and tick off another destination. While planning our October holidays, Peru seemed like the perfect choice. The peak tourist season runs from June to September, so visiting in October meant fewer crowds, and the rainy season had not yet begun. Packing was a bit tricky, though, since spring in Peru requires warmer clothing for the mountainous regions and lighter attire for the Amazon rainforest, another long-awaited destination for us.

Flights from Nice were expensive due to the school holidays, so we decided to fly from Milan, where Italy has no school break in October. We booked flights from Milan via Frankfurt and Bogotá to Lima, returning via Bogotá and Zurich. The overall travel time was long, though all layovers were two hours or less. Planning the holiday was challenging, as Peru is vast, diverse, and full of incredible sites. I didn’t want to cram too much into just two weeks, so we decided to spend the first part of our trip in Lima and the Sacred Valley, and the second part in the Amazon rainforest. This still required several internal flights, which I booked with LATAM Airways.

Our flight from Milan left at 11:00 a.m., so we stayed at an apartment near the airport the night before to avoid rushing. We had recently taken several long-haul flights with Lufthansa and had a very positive experience—the planes were modern and clean, and the service was excellent. Although the nearly 11-hour flight from Frankfurt to Bogotá sounded daunting, it passed quickly with movies and reading.

 

Although we landed at Bogotá airport around 7 p.m., our bodies were running on French time, and the exhaustion was starting to catch up with us. Thankfully, we only had a two-hour wait before boarding our final leg from Bogotá to Lima. The three-hour flight flew by — all of us slept straight through it.

We touched down in Lima close to 1 a.m., welcomed by the quiet calm of the night. Immigration moved surprisingly quickly, which felt like a small victory at that hour. I had arranged a car to take us to our hotel, the Hilton Miraflores, but between luggage, transfers, and late-night logistics, time slipped away. By the time we finally crawled into bed, it was already 3 a.m. — exhausted, but relieved to have arrived.

Despite the late night, we were up fairly early — it was our only full day in Lima, and we were determined to make the most of it. After a quick breakfast at the hotel (we didn’t want to overdo it), we waited for our 9 a.m. pickup. I had booked a six-hour food and sightseeing tour with the Lima Gourmet Company.

We didn't know much about Peruvian cuisine beyond ceviche, and I thought a food tour would be the perfect way to dive in and learn more. The Lima Gourmet Company was a bit pricier than some of the other options, but their glowing reviews made them stand out — and in the end, they absolutely lived up to the hype.

We met our guide, Carlos, in the hotel lobby just before 9 a.m., we then headed off to pick up the rest of the group — an American couple and a solo American traveler. Our first stop was the hip and colorful neighborhood of Barranco. As we stopped for ocean views, Carlos shared stories about Lima’s history before leading us to a nearby café for a traditional Peruvian breakfast. We chose between a roast pork sandwich or a steamed corn cake for vegetarians, all accompanied by a mug of excellent Peruvian coffee and freshly squeezed juice.

The tour continued with a leisurely walk through Barranco, where we admired the vibrant street art, art galleries, and sweeping ocean views. Before hopping back into the van, we made one more stop at a small café to grab lúcuma fruit shakes to go. In the café’s courtyard terrace stood a large lúcuma tree — the very source of the fruit we were tasting.




Our next stop was a covered market in the San Isidro neighborhood. Thanks to Lima’s traffic, the drive took over half an hour — but Carlos filled the time with fascinating stories about the history of Lima and Peru, as well as the country’s rich food culture. He explained, for instance, how Japanese and Chinese influences found their way into Peruvian cuisine through migrant workers in the 19th century. We also learned that potatoes originate from Peru, which boasts more than 3,500 varieties, and that many food names still come from the Inca language — like corn, known locally as choclo. With stories like these, the time flew by.

At the market, we wandered from stall to stall, discovering the fruits, vegetables, grains, herbs, and other ingredients that form the backbone of Peruvian cooking. The visit ended on a high note with a fruit-tasting session, where we sampled five local varieties, including granadilla, mango, and chirimoya — fresh, sweet, and the perfect way to experience the market with all our senses.

Our next stop was a small bar and eatery just a short drive from the market. With lunchtime approaching, it was the perfect moment for a pre-lunch aperitivo and a few bites to whet our appetites. We were introduced to traditional Peruvian drinks and sampled pisco — the iconic spirit of Peru (and Chile), made by distilling fermented grape juice into a high-proof liquor.

The bartender then mixed up Peru’s most famous cocktail, the classic Pisco Sour, which we, of course, got to taste. After the tasting session, we sat down and began assembling our own plate: coconut-flesh ceviche, followed by a mini portobello burger and a skewer of paiche fish. Every bite was absolutely delicious and left us excited for what was still to come.




It was time for the final stop of the tour — and a memorable one. We sat down for lunch at Huaca Pucllana Restaurant, located right next to the ancient pre-Columbian ruins, with beautiful views over the adobe pyramid. Dining in such a setting felt truly special, a perfect blend of history and gastronomy.

Huaca Pucllana is one of the most renowned restaurants in the Miraflores neighborhood, and as we sampled a wonderful selection of Peruvian dishes, it became clear why it enjoys such a reputation. The tour turned out to be an excellent introduction to Peruvian flavors — and by the end of the tour, we felt far more confident when opening restaurant menus for the rest of our trip.

A little tired after the tour, we took some time to relax back at the hotel before heading out again. We wanted to explore the Miraflores neighborhood, but also needed to pick up a local SIM card for internet access. We opted for a rechargeable Claro card, which worked well throughout the trip and could easily be topped up at pharmacies or small shops.

We wandered through the area at an easy pace, passing through Kennedy Park and continuing all the way to the clifftop promenade, where sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean opened up before us. As evening approached, the long day finally caught up with us. Martin decided to call it a night, while Johnny and I took one last stroll through the neighborhood, watching bars open their doors and restaurants slowly fill with people. We ended up skipping dinner that evening — after everything we had eaten during the tour, we were still more than satisfied.

 




Looking back, our single full day in Lima felt surprisingly rich and complete. Between history, vibrant neighborhoods, and an unforgettable introduction to Peruvian cuisine, the city gave us far more than we had expected in such a short time. As we finally turned in for the night, tired but content, it felt like the perfect beginning to our journey through Peru — a country that was already revealing its depth, flavors, and warmth, with so much more still waiting ahead.

Because we had gone to bed early, we were up with the first light the next morning. This gave us the perfect chance to enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the hotel as soon as it opened at 7 a.m. Afterwards, we took one last stroll through the Miraflores neighborhood, quietly watching the city come to life, before heading back to pack up. It was time to leave for the airport and catch our flight to Cusco, deep in the Peruvian Andes.

Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Although the flight to Cusco is short—just over an hour—the change in scenery is dramatic. As we began our descent, it felt as though the plane nearly brushed the mountaintops before banking sharply and landing on a narrow strip in a valley completely encircled by mountains. Cusco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was founded in the 12th century as the capital of the Inca Empire. Sitting at an elevation of around 3,500 meters above sea level, it was higher than anywhere we had ever been, and I couldn’t help but wonder how our bodies would react. With roughly 40% less oxygen in the air than at sea level, altitude sickness was a real concern.


 

To make the transition easier, we planned to acclimatize gradually by staying first in Ollantaytambo. Located about 60 kilometers from Cusco and at a slightly lower altitude of 2,800 meters, it offered a gentler introduction to life in the Andes. I had arranged a taxi to take us there directly from the airport. While the distance wasn’t long, the journey took nearly two hours, winding its way through dramatic mountain roads that offered our first real glimpse of the rugged beauty of the Sacred Valley.

We fell for Ollantaytambo instantly. The town is still inhabited by locals who continue to live within the original Inca layout of stone houses, canals, and plazas. Towering above it all is the impressive Inca fortress that shelters the village—remarkably well preserved and nearly intact. Ollantaytambo isn’t just a historical site; it’s a living Inca village.

We stayed right in the heart of the old town at a small guesthouse called Kamma Guest House, perfectly located within a short (and scenic!) walk of everything the town has to offer. Waking up surrounded by ancient stone walls made the experience feel all the more special.

Our room at Gamma Guest House

 

After a long day of travel, hunger quickly set in, so we decided it was time to sample the cuisine of the Andes. We headed to one of the highest-rated restaurants in town, Amanto. While it was slightly pricier than other local spots, it was still very affordable—the bill for three came to around €65—and every dish was exquisite. Each bite was a true explosion of flavors and the perfect introduction to Andean cuisine.

Early dinner at Amanto



 
 
Chica Morada - purple corn drink
 
After dinner, we took a leisurely walk around town to get our bearings and scout out the spots we wanted to visit the following morning. With the streets growing quiet and the stone walls glowing softly under the evening lights, we soon called it a night.
 
Evening in Ollantaytambo
 


 
We woke up early the next morning to have breakfast on the guesthouse terrace. While daytime temperatures in the Andes can reach around 20°C or even higher, the nights cool down significantly, often dipping to around 10°C. That morning, the terrace was decidedly chilly—about 12°C—but we enjoyed every moment of it. Sitting there with views of Inca ruins, fresh fruit on the table, and lively conversations with fellow travelers made the cold easy to forget. And of course, there was coca leaf tea, our daily ally in the battle against altitude sickness.
 
View from the terrace
 
 

After breakfast, we headed to Parque Arqueológico Ollantaytambo, one of the most important archaeological sites in the Sacred Valley. Ollantaytambo is considered a masterpiece of Inca architecture. Its main section features 17 terraces that climb toward a fortress perched high above the town. At the top, you’ll find an impressive ten-niche wall, the Sun Gate, and the remarkable Sun Temple, built from six enormous pink granite monoliths. Beyond this, the site unfolds into more terraces, colcas (storehouses), water fountains, and even a water temple.

We entered the site at around 7:30 a.m.—just half an hour after it opened—and had the place almost entirely to ourselves. At the entrance, we decided to hire a guide to explain the history and significance of the site, a decision that turned out to be well worth it. We loved everything about the visit: the stories our guide shared, the peaceful atmosphere, and the lack of crowds (which only began to arrive as we were leaving).

The only downside was the altitude, which we were still very much feeling. Climbing the seemingly endless stone stairs left us breathless far more quickly than expected, despite being in pretty good shape. The sole exception was Martin, who somehow seemed completely unaffected by the thin mountain air.










On the square in front of the ruins, a small craft market was set up, overflowing with colorful local products. We couldn’t resist the temptation and ended up picking up several items to take home, including beautifully woven alpaca wool scarves. Buying directly from local artisans felt especially meaningful—a small way to support their work and help keep their crafts alive.


It was time to head back to the guesthouse to pack our bags—only to leave most of them there. We were about to begin our Machu Picchu adventure and would be spending just one night in Aguas Calientes, returning to Ollantaytambo the following evening for another overnight stay. Since it was only a short trip, there was no need to take all our luggage with us. Instead, each of us packed a small backpack with just the essentials for one night.

Our train to Machu Picchu Pueblo departed from Ollantaytambo at 1:30 p.m. and took just under two hours to reach its destination. There are only two ways to get to Aguas Calientes, the town closest to the entrance of Machu Picchu: by train or on foot. There are no roads leading there. To save time, we opted for the train. While the tourist train to Machu Picchu is quite expensive (there is also a local train, but it requires a Peruvian ID), the journey itself is absolutely worth it. The route winds dramatically between mountains, and the train carriages are fitted with large panoramic windows—and even windows in the ceiling—making the views simply breathtaking.


 

We arrived in Aguas Calientes around 3:30 p.m., where a hotel representative was waiting to meet us at the station. The town is car-free and can feel like a bit of a labyrinth at first, with train tracks cutting through it and a river rushing alongside the buildings. We stayed at Hotel Pucara Machupicchu, a simple but centrally located hotel. At a much lower altitude of around 2,100 meters, Aguas Calientes felt noticeably warmer, and the surrounding vegetation was lush, green, and almost tropical.


 

Our first stop in Aguas Calientes was to buy the bus tickets for the journey up to Machu Picchu the following morning. With entrance tickets for the 8:00 a.m. time slot, we opted for the 7:00 a.m. bus, knowing the ride up the mountain takes about 20 minutes. That decision, of course, meant an early wake-up call—but it was a small price to pay.

Securing tickets to Machu Picchu requires some advance planning. To prevent overcrowding, only a limited number of tickets are sold for each time slot, and visitors must choose from several different circuits that cover specific areas of the site. I had booked our tickets nearly four months in advance and selected Circuit 2, the “classic” route. This circuit includes the iconic terraces with the famous Machu Picchu viewpoint before descending into the lower part of the ancient city.

With logistics taken care of, we treated ourselves to a relaxed dinner at a restaurant called Chullos, which I can wholeheartedly recommend—the food was absolutely delicious. After that, we called it a night, knowing the next day would be one of the highlights of our journey and one we’d want to experience well-rested.




The next morning came early. Breakfast at our hotel started at 5:30 a.m., and we arrived just after six, grateful for the early opening. Once fueled up, we headed straight to the bus stop to join the queue for the ride up to Machu Picchu. Everything was impressively well organized: staff called people forward according to the time printed on their tickets, and the process moved along smoothly.

The weather, however, was less cooperative. Low clouds hung heavy in the sky, and a light drizzle fell as we boarded the bus—far from ideal conditions for visiting Machu Picchu. The bus zigzagged its way up the narrow mountain road, at times skirting what felt like the very edge of the cliff, with misty views disappearing into the void below.

Upon arrival, we left our rucksacks at the luggage deposit, made sure we were lining up at the correct entrance, and passed through the gates. By then, the rain had stopped. Standing there, ready to step inside one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, we felt a mix of excitement and anticipation, eager to finally discover the ancient city hidden in the clouds.

The path first leads along the terraces, climbing steadily higher while the famous panorama remains constantly in view. From there, it descends on the opposite side, looping through the heart of the ancient “town” before circling back toward the terraces for the exit. At first, the ruins were wrapped in clouds, adding an air of mystery, but after about an hour the skies began to clear. Slowly, Machu Picchu revealed itself in all its glory, just as we had imagined.



Although it was still quite crowded—which is hardly surprising for a site of such global fame—the experience never felt diminished. Standing among these ancient stones, surrounded by mountain peaks, was unforgettable. All in all, we loved every moment. Machu Picchu truly is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and it was absolutely worth all the planning and expense it took to get there.

Our visit lasted around three and a half hours. Afterward, we took the same bus back down to town, where we found ourselves with several hours to spare before our afternoon train back to Ollantaytambo. We briefly considered visiting the hot springs, one of Aguas Calientes’ popular attractions, but decided against it since two of us were dealing with mild cold symptoms.

Instead, we spent the time at a slower pace, wandering through town, browsing the market for souvenirs, and treating ourselves to delicious cakes at a cozy little café. It was the perfect, low-key way to unwind after an unforgettable morning—letting the magic of Machu Picchu settle in before continuing our journey.

We took the train back to Ollantaytambo that afternoon, rolling in just in time for dinner. We returned to Kamma Guest House for one more night, once again welcomed by the warmth and hospitality of the wonderful owner, Liz. At just €68 per night including breakfast, it felt like an absolute steal — one of those places that makes you grateful you found it.

For the following morning, I had arranged transport with Taxidatum to take us on a full Sacred Valley loop: first to the Moray archaeological site, then on to the Maras salt mines, Chinchero town, and finally all the way to our hotel in Cusco. It was shaping up to be another big, unforgettable day.

The drive to Moray was stunning, with snow-capped Andean peaks frequently appearing in the distance. Sitting at an altitude of 3,400 meters, Moray is made up of three massive circular terrace complexes — muyus in Quechua — that descend nearly 150 meters from top to bottom. Each muyu contains 12 levels of terraces, with the largest depression stretching an impressive 180 meters in diameter.

Standing at the edge of these man-made craters, surrounded by towering mountains, is the kind of moment that stops you in your tracks. With no written language left behind by the Incas, Moray remains an enigma. For nearly a century, archaeologists, anthropologists, and curious travelers have debated its purpose. The most widely accepted theory is that Moray functioned as an agricultural laboratory, where the Incas experimented with crops over 500 years ago.

Much like the terraces of Machu Picchu, Moray’s steps were carved directly into the mountainside and reinforced with stone and soil to allow for proper drainage. Excavations have revealed that soil was transported here from different regions of Peru — further supporting the idea of agricultural experimentation. We loved exploring the site at our own pace, walking all the way down to the bottom and then climbing back up from the opposite side. By then, the altitude was really making itself known, and the climb back up was exhausting.




 

Our next stop was the Maras salt mines — over 6,000 salt ponds carved into the slopes of Qori Pujio Mountain in the Sacred Valley. Local families have been harvesting salt here continuously for more than 500 years. The shallow pools are fed by a natural saltwater spring, and as the water evaporates, it leaves behind brilliant white crystals.

It was another incredible place to explore, both beautiful and deeply tied to local tradition. Naturally, we couldn’t resist picking up some of the famous Maras salt to bring home with us.

 



Our final stop before reaching Cusco was Chinchero. While the town is well known for its Inca ruins, we found ourselves a little tired of the ruins after exploring Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu. Instead, knowing Chinchero’s strong reputation for traditional textiles, we asked our driver to take us to one of the local textile centers.

Chinchero textiles are created using ancestral techniques, with weaving and dyeing done entirely by hand using natural materials — no modern tools involved. Our visit turned out to be one of the most enjoyable stops of the day. A chatty and friendly local woman guided us through the entire process, explaining everything from the different types of alpaca wool to the natural ingredients used to produce each colour.

It was fascinating to see how vibrant the textiles were, knowing they came from plants, minerals, and insects, and the experience felt refreshingly personal — a living tradition rather than another archaeological site.



 
After another long day on the road, we were happy to finally arrive at our hotel in Cusco, Tika Wasi Casa Boutique — a small, charming place tucked away in the vibrant San Blas neighborhood. Although it was only about 500 meters from Cusco’s main square, Plaza de Armas, getting back to the hotel was always a bit of a workout, as it sat directly uphill from the square.

With no real plans for the evening, we kept things simple. We wandered the streets on foot for a while, soaking in our first impressions of the city, then enjoyed a delicious dinner at a small restaurant near the hotel before calling it a night — tired, content, and ready for whatever Cusco had in store for us next.

Plaza de Armas, Cusco

 

Cusco’s nights are surprisingly cool due to the altitude. In October — Peruvian spring — temperatures can drop to around 7–8°C at night, despite climbing above 20°C during the day. Although our hotel room had a small heater, the windows weren’t particularly well insulated, and we could feel the cold air creeping in. Thankfully, thick woolen blankets kept us warm, and we slept soundly.

The next morning brought the familiar travel dilemma of what to wear. It was still chilly, but we knew the temperature would rise quickly once the sun came out. After breakfast at the hotel, we headed straight toward Plaza de Armas, where I had booked us onto a city walking tour with Guru Walk starting at 10 a.m.

Waiting for the tour to begin

 

The walking tour turned out to be excellent. Our guide struck the perfect balance between Inca history and entertaining stories about Cusco, weaving in local traditions along the way. He also shared plenty of practical tips — what foods to try, how to cope with altitude sickness, and even a few words of encouragement as we climbed the steps up to the San Blas viewpoint.

It ended up being a fantastic introduction to Cusco, bringing the city to life and setting the tone for exploring this UNESCO World Heritage town beyond its famous landmarks.







After the tour, we followed our guide’s recommendation and headed to the San Blas Market. The market was buzzing, with an enticing mix of food stalls and local vendors. Although the street food looked tempting, we decided not to eat there and instead treated ourselves to some delicious, freshly made fruit smoothies. Beyond the food stalls, the market was filled with traditional stands selling fruit, vegetables, grains, and other local products, giving a real glimpse into everyday life in Cusco.
 



For lunch, we found a small restaurant near Plaza San Blas called Raíces Peruvian, just a short walk from our hotel. Every dish we ordered was exceptional. I tried the quinotto—a Peruvian take on risotto made with quinoa instead of rice—and loved it.
 
Quinotto
 
Lomo saltado with potatoes and fresh pasta

The day was beautifully warm and sunny, and after a busy morning exploring Cusco on foot, we decided we had earned a break. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the hammocks in the hotel’s garden, soaking up the sunshine and sipping cups of coca leaf tea that was always available at reception to help with the altitude.

 
We headed out again in the evening, even though the temperature drops quickly once the sun disappears behind the mountains. Wrapped up a little warmer, we wandered the streets for a while before the chill sent us back indoors. Cusco is an incredibly beautiful town, and we loved simply walking its narrow streets, taking in the atmosphere and the magic of this Andean city as night began to fall.
 



The next morning, it was time to pack our bags once again. We were leaving mountainous Cusco at lunchtime and heading for Iquitos, deep in the Amazon rainforest. Before that, we set out for one last walk around town after breakfast at the hotel, making our way to Mercado San Pedro. Larger and much busier than the San Blas Market, it was lively and colourful, though also quite hectic. While we enjoyed the experience, we found ourselves preferring the calmer, more intimate feel of San Blas.

Just before collecting our luggage and heading to the airport, we couldn’t resist one final stop at the San Blas Market— for those irresistible fresh fruit smoothies and some freshly baked empanadas.

It had been a wonderful week in the Sacred Valley, filled with discoveries about Inca culture and life in the Andes. Although the altitude sometimes made things challenging, we had an incredible time and left Cusco with memories we’ll carry with us for a long time.

 Iquitos and the Amazon rainforest 

To fly from Cusco to Iquitos, we had to transfer through Lima. Although we only had an hour and a half between flights, the journey still felt long, with the second leg from Lima to Iquitos taking nearly two hours. By the time we landed, it was already around 8 pm, but the tropical air hit us the moment we stepped off the plane at the tiny Iquitos airport.

Iquitos is the largest city in the world—home to about half a million people—that can only be reached by air or by water. Travelling by river can take around four days, which gives you an idea of just how isolated it is. This extreme remoteness is part of what makes Iquitos so fascinating. The city is surrounded by rivers, though not by the Amazon itself. To the west flows the Nanay River, while the Itaya River winds its way through the city’s downtown, shaping daily life and setting the tone for this unique Amazonian city.

A car was waiting to pick us up at the airport, and although it was already late and a light drizzle was falling, the nearly hour-long drive into the city centre was fascinating. Traffic was sparse when it came to cars, but the streets were alive with scooters, motorbikes, and tuk-tuks weaving their way through the night, giving us our first glimpse of Iquitos’ rhythm.

We were staying in an old colonial house that had been transformed into a hotel called Casa Moray. It was a beautiful building, full of old-world charm, with high ceilings and a timeless elegance that immediately made it feel like a special place to rest after a long day of travel.

Our (huge) room at Casa Moray


 

The next morning, we woke up early and went for a quick walk to explore the area around our hotel. Just outside, a river flowed past, and we could already see and hear several birds hidden in the trees. The air was thick and humid—unmistakably tropical, and a complete contrast to the cool and dry mountain climate we had left behind only a day earlier.

 
 

 
We had booked a four-day, three-night stay in the Amazon rainforest at Otorongo Lodge, where we would be spending our days exploring the jungle and taking part in various activities. Our guide, Lucho, was due to pick us up from the hotel at 7 a.m. Before heading deeper into the rainforest, we planned to visit the famous Iquitos’ Belén Market together.

After a quick breakfast at the hotel, Lucho organised two tuk-tuks for us, and we set off toward the market, ready for our first real taste of Amazonian life.


 

Belén Market is vast, chaotic, and endlessly fascinating, famous for its astonishing variety of exotic goods. Traders travel from remote Amazonian villages, some journeying 12 to 24 hours by river, to sell their produce and stock up on essentials. For many, this trip happens only once a week—or even once a fortnight—making the market a vital lifeline. During the rainy season, parts of Belén transform into a floating world, with stalls perched above rising waters. When we visited, at the tail end of the dry season, everything rested firmly on land—but the sense of adaptability and resilience was still everywhere.



 
Turtle eggs

Turtle meat


 

Later, we swapped the bustle of the market for the calm of the river, hopping into a small boat. As we drifted along, Lucho shared stories about daily life in the Amazon—how communities live, work, and move with the rhythm of the river. 
 



 

Although we had taken tuk-tuks to get there, we decided to walk back to the hotel. Our route first led us through the market’s labyrinth of narrow passages, then opened out along the riverside. There, we admired rows of faded colonial buildings—some still standing proud, others slowly surrendering to time. Lucho told us about Iquitos’ golden era during the rubber boom, when the city flourished as a major trade hub. Many of these buildings were constructed by Portuguese merchants, and their influence lingered in the delicate details, reminiscent of the azulejo-adorned facades we had seen on previous travels in Portugal.
 


After returning to the hotel to collect our luggage, we hopped on two tuk tuks once again and rattled through the lively streets of Iquitos toward the harbour. Waiting for us there was the speedboat that would carry us deep into the Amazon rainforest. At the dock, we met the lodge manager, who handed out matching lodge T-shirts and gave us a short briefing on what to expect over the next few days. And just like that, our Amazon adventure began.

The journey to the lodge took a little over two hours. As soon as we left Iquitos behind and entered the mighty Amazon River, we were stunned by its sheer size. The river already felt endless, yet Lucho explained that during the rainy season it becomes even wider.

Gradually, the signs of city life began to disappear. At first, the riverbanks were dotted with small villages, fishing boats, and occasional riverside homes, but the farther we travelled, the more remote everything became. The jungle slowly swallowed the edges of civilisation, replacing them with dense greenery and silence broken only by the sound of the boat engine and the calls of unseen birds.





Eventually, the boat slowed and turned into a narrow side river, hidden beneath overhanging trees. Ten minutes later, we arrived at Otorongo Lodge — our home in the Amazon for the next four days.

The lodge itself was simple but charming, perfectly suited to its jungle surroundings. We stayed in a family room made up of two bedrooms connected by a small lounge area. There was a toilet and a shower, although hot water was definitely not part of the experience. For most of our stay, we had the entire lodge to ourselves, with only a British couple arriving on the day we were leaving.

At the heart of the lodge was a cosy common room where all meals were served and snacks like biscuits and fresh fruit were available throughout the day. A table filled with books about Amazon wildlife quickly became one of our favourite features, allowing us to look up the fascinating plants and animals we encountered during our excursions.

Common room of the lodge


 

Our room was the whole upper floor of this building

 

We also met our second guide — known simply as “Secundo” — a local forest guide with an incredible talent for spotting wildlife hidden deep within the jungle. The food at the lodge was simple, fresh, and delicious, with every meal included in our stay and prepared by two kind local women. Vegetarian options were always available as well, which was a pleasant surprise so deep in the rainforest.

Lunch was waiting for us when we arrived at the lodge, and after a quick meal, it was time for our very first activity — a forest walk around the lodge grounds to get familiar with our new surroundings.

Before setting off, the lodge staff handed us a pair of tall rubber wellies, essential gear for every jungle excursion. They weren’t just for mud; the boots were there to protect us from accidentally stepping on something far less friendly hidden beneath the forest floor. Despite the intense heat and humidity, we were also told to wear our rain jackets and, somewhat nervously, to keep our hands firmly inside the pockets whenever possible. Our guides explained that even casually grabbing a branch for balance could end badly if a bullet ant happened to be resting there.

It was one of those moments when the reality of being in the Amazon truly hit us. This wasn’t a zoo, a nature park, or a carefully controlled tourist attraction — this was the real jungle, wild and unpredictable. Every step felt exciting and slightly intimidating at the same time. Incredible, beautiful, and just a little bit terrifying.

 
 

 Poison dart frog




That evening, after dinner, we headed back out into the jungle for a night walk — one of the activities we had been most excited about. As darkness fell over the rainforest, the entire atmosphere transformed. The jungle came alive with an orchestra of sounds: chirping insects, croaking frogs, distant bird calls. It felt completely different from the daytime forest, far more intense and alive.

Our guides explained that many of the Amazon’s creatures are nocturnal, so nighttime is often the best opportunity to spot wildlife. Armed with flashlights and headlights, we carefully followed narrow jungle paths, scanning the forest floor and tree trunks for movement and the faint reflection of glowing eyes.

And the wildlife did not disappoint. We spotted a tarantula and even managed to see a caimans lurking silently near the water, their eyes shining bright red in the torchlight. Every few minutes there seemed to be something new to discover. Walking through the Amazon jungle at night was both thrilling and slightly nerve-racking — the kind of experience that makes you feel completely immersed in nature.


 
Caiman

The next three days that followed were filled with unforgettable river adventures, guided by the ever-knowledgeable Secundo. Sometimes we spent nearly an hour cruising along the mighty Amazon before turning into narrow tributaries that led us deeper into the rainforest.

Each excursion brought new discoveries. We searched for sloths and macaws, spotted tiny tamarin monkeys darting through the treetops, and watched both grey and pink river dolphins surface from the dark waters. During one of our night walks, we came face to face with the fer-de-lance, one of South America's most venomous snakes. We also tried our luck at piranha fishing—successfully catching a few, which later became part of our dinner.

Sloths




 

Blue and gold macaws

Victoria amazonica giant water lilies

 

Tamarin

 
After a huge downpour

 Fer de lance


One evening, we witnessed one of the most spectacular sunsets from a sandbank in the middle of the Amazon, with dramatic clouds over the horizon. Along the way, we encountered countless bird species, visited a local riverside village, and learned how life here is shaped entirely by the rhythm of the river.

On the sandbank






 

Local village



We also enjoyed many fascinating conversations with our guide, Lucho, who shared stories about daily life in Iquitos and the challenges and joys of living in this remote corner of the world. More than anything, we experienced the Amazon—the "lungs of the Earth"—with all our senses.

One memory Martin will never forget came during our fishing trip. While removing a piranha from the hook, he managed to get bitten on the thumb. The small scar on his thumb will probably stay there for the rest of his life and he will have an exciting story to tell. 

Pirana fishing






 
Martin's revenge to pirana

The Amazon River and its rainforest left an imprint on our hearts that will remain forever.

Our location on Google Maps

After four unforgettable days immersed in the Amazon rainforest, returning to civilization felt surprisingly strange. We arrived back in Iquitos in the late afternoon, having left our jungle lodge shortly after lunch. With several hours to spare before our flight, we took the opportunity to enjoy one last taste of the Amazon city. We wandered through the streets, stopped for drinks at a charming riverside bar, and savoured a relaxed dinner at a small local restaurant.

 

Our flight to Lima departed at 9 p.m. and landed around 11 p.m., so it was nearly midnight by the time we checked into the Holiday Inn Lima Airport for the night. Although our international flight was not scheduled to leave until 1 p.m. the following day, we had no intention of rushing anywhere. Instead, we enjoyed a slow morning, sleeping in, relishing our first hot shower in several days (there had been no hot water at the Amazon lodge) and treating ourselves to a leisurely breakfast.

The journey home was smooth and uneventful. We passed through Bogotá once again, where we enjoyed a delicious Colombian dinner during our layover, before continuing via Zurich and finally arriving in Milan.

Peru was our first introduction to South America, and it certainly won't be our last. The continent has captured our imagination, and we are already dreaming of future adventures. In fact, we would gladly return to Peru itself, as despite everything we experienced, it felt as though we had only scratched the surface of this fascinating and diverse country.

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