Our family’s travel bucket list is impressively long—and, of course, Covid restrictions haven’t exactly helped shorten it. We already have several trips planned, just waiting for the right moment. Our Portugal trip had been on the agenda for a couple of years, and finally, we managed to make it happen.
We knew that traveling during Covid would mean more restrictions, but also fewer crowds and better prices. In the end, spending a week of the October school holidays in Portugal still felt like a great idea. We decided on a round-trip itinerary—flying into Lisbon and out of Faro—so we could see as much of the country as possible.
From Nice Airport, the only direct flights were to Lisbon, but we wanted to return from Faro. Luckily, there’s another major airport just under two hours away—Marseille Provence. We hadn’t flown from Marseille much—only to Morocco back in 2011—but we knew Ryanair had plenty of European destinations. It had also been a while since we’d flown with Ryanair, but for short European flights of up to two hours, it seemed fine.
Parking the car at Marseille Airport for a week cost only 36 euros, which was a bargain. Following all the rules, Ryanair turned out to be perfectly manageable. We opted for the family pack, which included two large and two small suitcases, printed our boarding passes, and had no issues at all.
Lisbon and around
Our two-hour flight from Marseille to Lisbon went smoothly. The plane was completely full, but after so many trips during Covid, we were used to the routine—masks on, disinfecting tray tables and armrests. Ryanair seats felt a bit snug, but for a short flight, it was perfectly fine. We landed in Lisbon late afternoon and took a Bolt cab to our accommodation in the city center for a very reasonable 17 euros.
We were staying at Lisbon Art Stay Apartments, just steps from the Santa Justa Elevator, right in the heart of the city. Our two-bedroom apartment was spacious, colorful, and full of charm—the perfect blend of comfort and character in a historic building.
At the colourful lobby of the Lisbon Art Stay
Our multicoloured apartment
After checking in and quickly dropping off our bags, we went for a stroll to soak in the city and find dinner. A small family-run restaurant nearby served a delicious meal of paella and bacalhau—the traditional Portuguese dried and salted cod found in many local dishes.
The next morning, we woke to the sound of rain. Undeterred, we stuck to our plan to pick up our rental car and visit Nazaré. Breakfast was included with our stay, served in the hotel’s bar/restaurant area. The space was as colorful and funky as the rest of the hotel, with live music performances in the evenings. While Tripadvisor reviews mentioned a buffet, Covid had changed the setup. Instead, we ordered from the menu, which offered a wide selection of tasty dishes, including several vegetarian options. Their avocado on sourdough toast was a particular highlight.
We had rented a car from Hertz for a day to drive the 120 km north to the famous surfing village of Nazaré. The drive took about an hour and a half, but it soon became clear that the weather wasn’t on our side—it was pouring rain and didn’t seem likely to clear.
Nazaré is a charming seaside village, popular with tourists and renowned for its surfing. The giant waves, caused by the underwater Nazaré Canyon, have set numerous world records and attract surfers from around the globe. While we weren’t lucky enough to see the massive waves that day, the beach itself was still beautiful. A 500-meter walk from the parking lot to the lighthouse left us soaked, but it was worth it. For just one euro, we visited the lighthouse, a small surf museum, and an exhibition explaining why Nazaré’s waves reach such incredible heights.
Soaked and chilled from our visit to Nazaré, we made a stop in the village of São Martinho do Porto on the way back to Lisbon. A warming bowl of fish soup in a lovely beachfront restaurant was exactly what we needed. The portions were enormous—one soup easily served two people, leaving us full and satisfied.
By the time we returned to Lisbon, the rain had stopped. The evening looked inviting, so we set out to explore the city. Lisbon is wonderfully walkable, though the streets often involve a steep climb or descent. The city also has an impressive network of stairs and lifts to help navigate the hills, the most famous being the Elevador de Santa Justa, which connects the lower streets of the Baixa neighborhood with the higher Largo do Carmo. Wandering through the illuminated streets that evening, we quickly fell in love with the city’s charm and character.
Views from the top platform of Santa Justa Lift
That evening, we had dinner at the Lisbon Time Out Market, located in the historic Mercado da Ribeira. The old market hall has been transformed into a vibrant food court, with stalls representing some of Portugal’s top Michelin-starred chefs, including Alexandre Silva and Henrique Sá Pessoa. We were truly spoiled for choice, and in the end, each of us picked something from a different stall. With so many delicious options, it was impossible to go wrong—everything we tried was excellent.
The next morning, sunlight streamed through our window blinds—a promising start for our planned day of sightseeing. After breakfast at the hotel, we hopped on the famous tram number 28, the classic Lisbon experience. Riding the quaint yellow tram as it rattled and screeched through narrow streets was unforgettable. Route 28 uses historic trams from the 1930s, as the tight turns, steep hills, and narrow streets of the route are unsuitable for modern vehicles.
Lisbon’s charm also lies in its buildings adorned with azulejo tiles, decorating the facades in every neighborhood.
Walking through the city, it quickly became clear that comfortable shoes are essential—every corner offers something new to see, and the city’s hills provide stunning viewpoints at every turn. Lisbon has an irresistible vibe, and after just a couple of days, we knew we would return.
Sao Bento Palace, the seat of Portugese Parliament
We called it an early night, as the next morning meant picking up our rental car to visit Évora in central Portugal before heading south to the Algarve coast.
Evora and the Southern coast of Portugal
Thanks to Covid restrictions, car rental prices in Portugal were surprisingly reasonable. We had reserved a BMW 3 Series from Sixt, but were pleasantly surprised with a complimentary upgrade to a Mercedes C-Class. We planned to drop the car off at Faro Airport, where our return flight would depart, which came with an extra fee of 60 euros.
With the GPS set for Évora, we said goodbye to Lisbon and headed out of the city, crossing the impressive Vasco da Gama Bridge. This cable-stayed bridge, flanked by long viaducts, spans the Tagus River and is the longest bridge in the European Union—and the second longest in all of Europe—stretching an astonishing 12.3 kilometres. It was built to allow traffic between Portugal’s northern and southern regions to bypass the capital, making our smooth drive a perfect start to our road trip.
One of the town’s most famous—and unusual—attractions is the Capela dos Ossos, or Bone Chapel. Built by Franciscan monks, the chapel’s interior walls are decorated with human skulls and bones. An estimated 5,000 corpses, exhumed from Évora’s medieval cemeteries, were used to create this macabre yet fascinating display. It’s a reminder of the town’s long and layered history.
For our stay in the Algarve, we had chosen the small seaside town of Praia da Luz as our base. The drive from Évora took about two and a half hours, and we were excited to check into the Baía da Luz apartment hotel. We were pleasantly surprised by the apartment—spacious, modern, and spotlessly clean. It featured a large living room with access to a terrace, a fully equipped kitchen, a bathroom, and two bedrooms (one en suite) on the entrance level, plus another large bedroom with en suite bathroom and a sun terrace on the upper level. Unlike many vacation apartments, our space was cleaned every other day, and the Rituals toiletries in the bathrooms added a luxurious touch.
The apartment was just a five-minute walk from the beach and the lively promenade lined with cafés and restaurants. There was also a heated swimming pool in the courtyard. We enjoyed it so much that we ended up having takeaway dinners on the terrace each night, soaking in the sunset views instead of dining out.
On our first day exploring southern Portugal, we headed to Cabo de São Vicente (Cape St. Vincent), the extreme southwestern point of continental Europe, near the village of Sagres. A well-maintained hiking trail runs around the cape, protected by a low barrier to prevent venturing too close to the dramatic cliffs, which rise 60 to 80 meters above the Atlantic. The views from the edge are absolutely breathtaking. Entrance to the cape is through a small fortress and lighthouse complex operated by the Portuguese Navy, adding a historic touch to the natural spectacle.
Before heading back to our apartment, we made a quick drive to the town of Lagos, just ten minutes from Luz, to stock up on groceries. Since our apartment rental didn’t include any meals, it was lovely to enjoy morning coffee and breakfast on our terrace each day. Luz itself is a small town with only a couple of shops, so visiting Lagos with its larger supermarkets offered much more choice—especially for plant-based milks and other specialty items. I always enjoy exploring grocery stores abroad and discovering the local and imported products. The Algarve has a sizable British community and many British tourists, so we noticed plenty of products from the UK on the shelves. While in Lagos, we also strolled through the old town and along the beach, taking in the charming, slightly touristic atmosphere.
Back in Luz, the kids headed straight for the apartment pool, as the late October weather was unexpectedly warm. Later, we walked along the beach promenade and decided to climb the rocky outcrop overlooking the town and beach. From the top, we enjoyed stunning views of the coastline and watched the sun sink into the Atlantic—a peaceful end to the afternoon.
Sunset over Praia da Luz
The next day, we set out to see one of the Algarve’s most famous natural wonders: the Benagil Cave. The best way to experience it, along with the spectacular coastline, is by boat. We joined a two-hour tour departing from the village of Carvoeiro, a quaint seaside town with its own coastal hiking trail starting from the beach. Arriving early for our trip, we explored the trail and were impressed by the Algarve’s network of well-marked and maintained hiking routes—the Carvoeiro trail is definitely worth a visit.
The coastline tour was on a small motorboat, and apart from our family, there were just two other couples on board—eight passengers in total, plus the driver/guide. The tour consisted of a slow, scenic hour-and-a-half ride along the coast, visiting several caves, followed by a faster thirty-minute ride back from the last cave to the starting point. At 25 euros per person, it was a quite a bargain.
The coastline was stunning, with dramatic cliffs, hidden beaches, and about ten different caves to explore. Seeing the coast from the sea gave a completely different perspective than from land. Considering it was the end of October, we were lucky to enjoy clear skies and warm sunshine. On the return leg, when the boat picked up speed, the wind made it feel a little chilly—but it was worth it for the incredible views.
After the boat tour, we drove to the nearby town of Albufeira for a late lunch. The town felt a bit like a tourist hotspot past its prime—many bars were closed, likely due to Covid restrictions—but the beach was lovely, and we still had plenty of restaurant options to choose from.
The following day, with the Atlantic winds predicted to bring big waves, we headed to Bordeira to see the action. Surfers in camper vans lined the beaches, waiting for the perfect break. The coastline there is wild and rugged, with small, separated beaches and dramatic rock formations. Walkways and viewing platforms on the cliffs made it easy to enjoy the scenery safely, offering a perfect vantage point over the untamed Atlantic.
It was our last day in Portugal, and the next morning we would be flying from Faro back to Marseille. Reflecting on the trip, we realized how much we had fallen in love with the country. Lisbon, with its vibrant streets, colorful trams, and azulejo-adorned buildings, left a lasting impression. The Algarve’s dramatic cliffs, hidden beaches, and turquoise waters were equally unforgettable.
We were charmed by the easy-going nature and friendliness of the Portuguese people, the sense of space and calm in the smaller towns, and the incredible food—even if some portions were enormous! Portugal felt affordable, accessible, and endlessly rewarding to explore. Being able to tick off a trip that had been on our family bucket list for so long, even amid Covid restrictions, was immensely satisfying.
One thing was clear: this would not be our last visit. Portugal has so much more to offer, and we can’t wait to return.
Bellissimo
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