Visiting Mexico wasn’t originally in our plans, but when we started looking for our next winter holiday destination, the options were limited due to Covid restrictions (most of Southeast Asia, for example, was still closed or heavily restricted). We wanted the trip to be as hassle-free as possible, and when we saw that Mexico had scrapped most of its Covid-related entry requirements, we decided to go.
Finding flights wasn’t straightforward, as we wanted to avoid transiting through the United States or Canada because of additional Covid restrictions and ESTA requirements. Instead, we focused on finding a direct flight from Europe. Oh, how I miss the ease of pre-Covid travel!
Eventually, we found suitable flights from Barcelona again, this time with Iberia. The kids had to miss two days of school, but I hoped it wouldn’t be an issue. It was going to be a long day of travel, but by then we were quite used to that. This time, however, we decided to fly from Nice to Barcelona instead of driving. In January—after we had already bought our tickets—Mexico removed all remaining Covid-related travel restrictions. What a pleasant surprise.
Mexico is a huge country, and with only two weeks, we could see just a tiny part of it. We decided to focus on the Yucatán Peninsula, but even there we had to choose between so many fascinating places—deciding what to see and what to leave for a future trip. In the end, our itinerary became a mix of history, nature, active days, and relaxation. Mexico really has so much to offer.
About two weeks before our departure, I received a message from Vueling informing us that our flight from Nice to Barcelona had been cancelled. I eventually managed to book new tickets from Marseille to Barcelona instead. This meant that instead of flying from Nice—only about 20 minutes from where we live—we now had to leave from Marseille, two hours away. It also meant taking a train to Marseille and the kids missing yet another day of school. As it was our only option, we had no choice but to go with it. At least on the way back, we were still able to fly to Nice.
Thankfully, everything went smoothly on the day of travel. The train to Marseille was on time, followed by a short local train ride from Marseille Saint-Charles station to Vitrolles Airport station, and then a brief bus ride to the airport terminal. Marseille Airport felt almost deserted—there were only a few flights departing that day, and most of the bars and cafés were closed. Even the duty-free shop closed after all the passengers from our flight had passed through.
All our documents were thoroughly checked at the check-in counter, but as usual, I had done my homework and we had no issues. We also had our Spanish QR codes, which were required to enter Spain and had to be obtained in advance via the Spanish Travel Health website. The flight from Marseille to Barcelona took about an hour, and we exited the airport without any problems—only the QR codes were checked.
I had hoped to use Uber or Bolt to get from the airport to our hotel, but neither seemed to operate in Barcelona. We ended up taking a regular taxi and paid a hefty 35 euros for a 10-minute ride to the B&B Hotel Viladecans—the same hotel we had stayed at before our Tanzania trip. It’s a nice hotel and conveniently located near the airport. The receptionist recommended using the Cabify app for airport transfers. It’s similar to Uber, and the next morning we paid just 12 euros for the ride back to the airport.
A long day of travel lay ahead of us: Barcelona – Madrid – Mexico City – Cancún. When checking in for our flight at Barcelona Airport, it almost felt like pre-Covid travel—we didn’t have to show any certificates or test results, just our passports.
The 12-hour flight from Madrid to Mexico City was fortunately not very full, and the four of us managed to secure two sets of three seats. It was our first time flying long-haul with Iberia, and unfortunately, their service could have been better. One meal service was skipped entirely, leaving everyone on board without food or drinks for over eight hours. We were served a warm meal shortly after take-off and a small cold meal just before landing.
We arrived in Mexico City in the evening, with a rather bumpy landing. On the plane, we had been given immigration cards to fill out, which had to be presented upon arrival. Immigration kept the main part of the card, while a smaller section had to remain with our passports until the end of the trip. Our return tickets were also checked.
Next, we needed to locate an Aeroméxico counter, as Iberia couldn’t issue our boarding passes for the domestic flight. Luckily, we had almost four hours to spare—Mexico City Airport is quite confusing, and it took a while to figure out where to go. Eventually, we learned that Aeroméxico flights depart from a different terminal, which required taking a monorail train.
The flight from Mexico City to Cancún took a little over two hours. By this point, we were all completely exhausted after more than 20 hours of travel, with our bodies convinced it was already morning rather than early night. Cancún welcomed us with a warm tropical breeze, and we immediately felt out of place wearing jackets—while it had been a chilly 10°C or less in Mexico City, the temperature in Cancún was well over 20°C.
We had booked a hotel near Cancún Airport for our first night, but getting there turned out to be more challenging than expected. There weren’t many taxis available, and the price for a ride of less than 10 minutes was 30 dollars. We waited nearly an hour for a taxi and were completely drained by the time we arrived at the hotel.
Unfortunately, the issues didn’t end there. We had reserved a junior suite at Villa Palmeras through Booking.com, which was supposed to include a king-size bed and a sofa bed. The sofa bed was tiny—even for our 13-year-old, who somehow managed to sleep on it—while the rest of us (two adults and a 15-year-old) squeezed into the king-size bed. We were far too tired to argue, and as it was already 2 a.m., we decided to make do for one night. There was also no extra bedding for the sofa bed at first, but the receptionist eventually managed to find something for us.
The next morning, everything looked brighter. The junior suite actually had a spacious terrace overlooking the pool area. Our room rate also included breakfast, served buffet-style, which we could enjoy either indoors in the restaurant or outside by the pool.
Our terrace was the large one on the first floor
Poolside early in the morning
Breakfast by the pool
Merida and the Yucatan state
We didn’t stay long at Hotel Villa Palmeras, as we had booked a car with National Car Rental at Cancún Airport for 8 a.m. to begin our Yucatán Peninsula road trip. The service at National was excellent, and before long we had our Kia Forte and were ready to head to our next destination: Mérida.
The fastest way to get from Cancún to Mérida is via the motorway. The drive takes just under four hours and costs around 20 euros (about 450 pesos) in tolls. The road was mostly empty and easy to drive, though admittedly quite boring. I had only exchanged a small amount of Mexican pesos upon arrival, so we quickly realized we needed to stop in Valladolid to exchange more cash in order to pay the motorway tolls, which only accept cash.
We soon discovered that cash is widely used in Mexico—most of the restaurants we visited, and even a couple of the places we stayed at, accepted cash only. During our stay, the exchange rate was around 22.5–23 Mexican pesos per euro. It’s also worth noting that while Cancún is in the state of Quintana Roo, Mérida is in Yucatán, and the two states are in different time zones. When Cancún was six hours behind France, Mérida was seven.
We had booked a lovely hotel called Casa del Balam, located right in the heart of Mérida. One of its big advantages was the free parking, which meant we could leave the car behind and explore the city on foot. Despite being the capital of Yucatán, Mérida didn’t feel like a big city at all—it felt charming and relaxed, with its colourful colonial-style houses, our hotel included.
Our hotel Casa del Balam
We were all quite hungry, so we decided to head to the main market in town, which was said to have an upstairs area with small stalls serving authentic local cuisine. The market itself was buzzing with life—locals going about their daily routines, choosing from an incredible variety of fruits, vegetables, and other goods. We enjoyed a tasty, though slightly spicy, meal of genuine local food and felt ready to explore the town a bit more afterward.
Merida market
The city of Mérida was founded in 1542 by Francisco de Montejo y León on top of an ancient Maya city called T’ho, and Mayan culture is still very much present in the daily life of its inhabitants. Mérida is the largest city on the Yucatán Peninsula, with a population of around 1.2 million. While Spanish is the main language spoken in the city, about a third of the population still speaks Mayan. Because the Yucatán Peninsula is geographically more isolated from the rest of Mexico, it has developed a unique culture that blends Mayan and Catholic traditions—for example, in celebrations such as the Day of the Dead.
Mérida’s city centre is very walkable, with narrow streets lined with colourful buildings and many charming little squares. It is also often said to be the safest city in Mexico.
After breakfast, it was time to pack and continue our road trip. The sky was cloudy, and as we set off from Mérida toward our next destination, it began to rain. Our plan for the day was to drive to the Mayan site of Uxmal, about an hour and a half from Mérida, stopping at a couple of cenotes along the way. Cenotes are natural deep-water wells, or sinkholes, fed by rainwater and underground river currents. While cenotes can be found worldwide, the Yucatán Peninsula—and especially the Riviera Maya—is unique due to the sheer number of them. The ancient Maya often used them as water sources and occasionally for ceremonial offerings.
Several cenotes lie between Mérida and Uxmal. We chose to visit two that were close to each other: Cenote Suem and Cenote Nah Yah. There was a small entrance fee of 50 pesos (about 2 euros) per person. Cenotes closer to the coast, where tourism is more developed, tend to be more expensive, better organized, and more crowded. At these cenotes, we saw only a few other visitors and changed into our swimwear in the car. Steep wooden stairs led down to a small swimming platform. In the end, only Johnny decided to test the water—the rain had started, and the rest of us didn’t feel like jumping into the cold water.
We continued on toward Uxmal—a lesser-known and less-visited site than Chichén Itzá, but still an incredibly impressive ancient Mayan city. Uxmal, a UNESCO World Heritage site, dates back to the Classical period of Maya civilization and is considered one of the most important archaeological sites of Maya culture. According to Maya chronicles, Uxmal was founded around 500 A.D. The exact dates of occupation remain unknown, and estimates of its population—around 15,000 people—are only rough guesses. Most of the city’s major constructions were built while Uxmal was the capital of a Late Classic Maya state, roughly between 850 and 925 A.D.
Entrance fees for archaeological sites in Mexico are relatively high, with different rates for locals and foreigners. At Uxmal, tickets cost 495 pesos per adult, while children under 13 enter for free—so Martin still got in at no cost.
What fascinated us most was how much remains unknown about the Maya way of life. This mystery made Uxmal feel even more magical. It was awe-inspiring to think that such precise, grand structures were built so long ago, without modern tools or machinery. Even as we wandered the quiet courtyards and climbed the terraces for views over the site, the sense of history and the ingenuity of the Maya left a lasting impression on all of us.
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By the time we reached Hacienda María Elena, near the small village of Ticul about 20 minutes’ drive from Uxmal, the rain had started to fall quite heavily. A hacienda can be described as a large estate, most commonly found in countries that were once colonies of the Spanish Empire. Many haciendas were historically used as mines, factories, or plantations, and some combined several of these activities.
Hacienda María Elena had been tastefully renovated, preserving much of its original architecture while offering comfortable, modern rooms. The grounds were beautiful, with well-kept gardens, and the on-site restaurant served delicious food. For travelers who don’t wish to stay overnight, many haciendas—including this one—welcome visitors for a meal or a drink. Scattered throughout the Yucatán, they provide a charming glimpse into the region’s colonial history and lifestyle.
After a hearty breakfast at the hacienda, we set off toward our next destination: the town of Xpujil in the state of Campeche. It was going to be almost four and a half hours of driving along small country roads, so we made sure to leave early.
Barely ten minutes into the drive, we spotted a Mayan site—Kabah—and decided to make a stop. Kabah is connected to Uxmal by an 18-kilometre-long raised causeway, about five metres wide, with monumental arches at each end. It is the second-largest ruin in the Puuc region, after Uxmal, and offered us another fascinating glimpse into the architectural skill and ingenuity of the ancient Maya.
Calakmul, Campeche
After a short stop at Kabah, we continued our journey towards Xpujil. Based on our experience in Mexico, we’ve learned to expect police checkpoints when crossing from one state to another, so we weren’t particularly surprised when we were stopped at the border between Yucatán and Campeche. The road was quiet and we were the only car around. Even though we hadn’t broken any rules, being tourists made us an easy target.
After checking our documents, the policeman was in no hurry to hand back the car papers or Johnny’s driving licence. In the end, a “fine” of 400 pesos (around 17 euros) solved the situation, and we were sent on our way with a broad smile. It wasn’t the first time we’d encountered this during our travels—and it probably won’t be the last.
Xpujil itself is a small and rather unassuming town, but it’s well known among travelers as the main base for visiting the impressive ruins of Calakmul. Although the archaeological site lies more than an hour and a half away, Xpujil remains the most practical place to stay. We spent two nights in a small, family-run place called Ecohabitat, a private home with a few separate cottages set on the property.
Our cottage was simple but comfortable, with a bedroom containing two double beds, a bathroom, and an enclosed terrace equipped with a fridge and a small dining area. Everything was spotlessly clean, and a hearty homemade breakfast was included—an excellent start to our days exploring the region.
Although Calakmul lies far from the usual tourist trail of the Yucatán Peninsula and requires a bit of planning to reach, it is absolutely worth the effort. In fact, it ended up being our favourite archaeological site in the region.
Hidden deep in the jungle of Campeche, Calakmul is a vast Maya archaeological site located in the greater Petén Basin, just 35 kilometres from the Guatemalan border. Once one of the largest and most powerful cities in the Maya lowlands, Calakmul is believed to have had a population of around 50,000 people and, at its peak, exerted influence over areas as far as 150 kilometres away.
The scale of the site is truly impressive. Archaeologists have identified around 6,750 ancient structures here, including the Great Pyramid (Structure II), which rises more than 45 metres high and is one of the tallest Maya pyramids ever built. Like many pyramids in Mesoamerica, it grew over time as new layers were constructed on top of earlier temples. The monumental centre alone covers roughly two square kilometres, while the entire site—including vast residential areas hidden beneath dense vegetation—spans about 20 square kilometres (source: Wikipedia).
Visiting Calakmul requires an early start. We had breakfast at 7 a.m. and were on the road by 7:30. It’s essential to bring plenty of water and snacks (or even a packed lunch), as there are no shops, cafés, or vendors at the site itself, and the nearest town is a long way off. It took us about half an hour to reach the Calakmul entrance, where we paid two fees—a site entry fee and a national park fee—for a total of 130 pesos. There was a small shop at the entrance selling basic snacks and drinks for those who came unprepared.
From there, the journey continued for another hour along a narrow jungle road stretching some 60 kilometres to the ruins themselves. Calakmul truly feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. The drive was beautiful, like passing through a long green tunnel carved out of the rainforest. While we didn’t spot any larger wildlife, we did see several colourful wild turkeys wandering casually along the roadside—a small but memorable reminder of how remote this place really is.
From the parking lot, it was about a one-kilometre walk to reach the ruins themselves. There were a few other cars parked, but given the sheer size of the site, we spent most of the time completely on our own. Partway along the trail, we heard rustling in the trees above us and looked up just in time to see a troop of spider monkeys moving through the jungle canopy directly overhead.
Calakmul is one of the few Maya sites where climbing the pyramids is still permitted—at your own risk, of course. There are no safety barriers, and the steps are uneven, steep, and thousands of years old. The main structures at Calakmul date back to between 550 and 300 B.C., which makes the experience feel even more surreal. The site has a remarkable sense of tranquillity and spirituality, at least to us, and it was fascinating to see how completely the jungle has reclaimed this ancient Maya city.
We did climb the tallest pyramid, Structure II, and although it was undeniably nerve-racking, the view from the top was absolutely worth it. All around us stretched an endless sea of green jungle, broken only by the tops of other distant temples. As if on cue, we heard the deep, echoing calls of howler monkeys, and soon spotted several troops moving through the trees.
It was our last night inland. The following morning, we would be heading back towards the coast, leaving the jungle behind and trading ancient ruins for the sea.
Quintana Roo - Bacalar, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and Cancun
We woke up early to the sound of heavy rain and decided to have a quick breakfast before setting off towards Bacalar. At the last minute, I had changed our plans and added a stop in Bacalar instead of staying in Tulum. I’d read that Bacalar is what Tulum used to be 15–20 years ago—a small, laid-back town with a relaxed vibe, set on the shores of a stunning lagoon known as the Lagoon of Seven Colours.
Bacalar sits in the far south of Mexico, with the Belizean border only about 10 kilometres away. The drive from Xpujil took us roughly an hour and a half, which meant we arrived around 10 a.m.—too early for our room at Oasis Hotel & Suites to be ready. Fortunately, as we got closer to the coast, the rain cleared and the day turned into perfect lagoon weather.
Even though our room wasn’t ready yet, the hotel kindly allowed us to use the changing rooms by the pool, so we quickly changed and headed straight down to the lagoon, just a short walk downhill from the hotel. There’s no sandy beach along the lagoon, but the water more than makes up for it with its incredible shades of blue.
We were very happy with our choice of accommodation. The hotel was close to the town centre—although Bacalar is small and nothing is really far away—and the room itself was beautiful. It featured a spacious bedroom with one double bed and two single beds, a living area with a kitchenette, two bathrooms, and an outdoor terrace. Everything was modern, bright, and spotlessly clean.
Curious to find the best spot to enjoy the lagoon, we asked at the hotel for recommendations and were pointed towards Cocalitos Beach Club. It didn’t disappoint. Located a bit outside the centre, we drove there by car. The entrance fee was 50 pesos per person, and parking was conveniently included. On site, there was a simple restaurant, along with hammocks and swings set directly in the water—perfect for soaking up the relaxed Bacalar atmosphere.
Bacalar truly exceeded our expectations, and we would have happily spent more time there. The town centre has a wonderfully relaxed, colourful vibe, with brightly painted houses and a great selection of good, very affordable restaurants.
One of our favourite spots was Enamora, where we really enjoyed our breakfast. The food was delicious, and the wide range of vegan options made it an easy favourite and a perfect way to start the day.
The next morning, we took things slowly. We visited the local market to pick up fresh fruit for smoothies back at the hotel—the kitchenette in our room was well equipped and even had a blender. After one last refreshing swim in the lagoon, it was time to hit the road towards Playa del Carmen.
The drive was going to be a long one—more than three and a half hours—so we decided to break it up with a stop at a cenote for a swim. Cenotes closer to the coast tend to be more developed and slightly more expensive than those inland; at Cenote Zemway, the entrance fee was 90 pesos per person. I did some research beforehand, as we wanted to avoid extremely popular and crowded spots like the Grand Cenote.
In the end, we chose Cenote Zemway near Tulum, and it turned out to be a great decision. While the cenote offered all the modern comforts—changing rooms, toilets, and even jumping platforms—it was surprisingly quiet. At one point, we had the water entirely to ourselves, which made the experience feel even more special.
After a refreshing couple of hours at the cenote, we continued our drive towards Playa del Carmen. I had booked a two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment for our next two nights. The apartment was located slightly outside the town centre and was a bit tricky to find at first, but once we arrived, we were impressed. It was set within a very secure gated complex, and getting in meant passing through two separate security checkpoints.
The city centre was only about a ten-minute drive away, and despite being outside the core, it was easy to get around. We never had any trouble finding parking once we reached town. After several days spent surrounded by nature and in laid-back small towns, stepping into Playa del Carmen felt almost overwhelming. Walking along the famous Fifth Avenue was a sensory overload—crowds everywhere, shops lining the street, restaurants hosting live shows, and nightclubs competing for attention. It felt like a place built for nonstop partying.
Our first stop was the harbour, where we bought ferry tickets to Cozumel for the following morning. We had planned a snorkelling trip there, and it felt like the perfect next adventure after our time in the jungle and lagoon.
Fortunately, we were still used to waking up early thanks to the time difference with France. Our Ultramar ferry to Cozumel was scheduled for 9 a.m., and we wanted to park the car nearby and be at the terminal at least half an hour before departure. It was a gray, drizzly morning, not very warm, and I worried the snorkelling trip might even be cancelled.
The ferry ride took about half an hour, but the sea was rough, and all passengers were asked to stay inside. By the time we arrived, I was feeling quite seasick and had to sit on a park bench across from the ferry terminal to gather myself.
Our guide explained that the boat was actually on the other side of the island, where the waters were calmer and suitable for snorkelling. The tour was small—just six of us: the four of us, plus two Americans from a cruise ship. Snorkel masks and fins were included in the price.
The first stop was Palancar Reef, where we were mesmerized by vibrant corals and schools of colourful fish. Next, we visited El Cielo, famous for its white sand and abundance of starfish. We ended the tour at a beautiful beach where we spotted dozens of stingrays gliding gracefully through the water.
The crew served fresh fruit after the snorkelling to wash away the salty taste in our mouths, and just before heading back, we enjoyed freshly made guacamole with chips and a choice of beer or soft drinks. Even though the weather was cooler than usual, the water was warm, and we had an incredible time snorkelling in Cozumel.
For the last four days of our holiday, we decided to slow down and indulge in the luxury of a five-star all-inclusive resort. Cancun has no shortage of options, and the price-to-quality ratio is excellent, but we were looking for a resort with sprawling grounds, multiple restaurants, plenty of pools, a beach, and activities for the kids. After some research, we settled on Moon Palace The Grand—and it completely exceeded our expectations.
We never left the resort during our stay. It was massive, with lush gardens, a wide variety of restaurants, excellent pools, and a wealth of activities. They even organized a huge American-style garden party for Superbowl night. What did we love most? The impeccable service, our enormous bedroom with a jacuzzi for two, a spacious terrace, and incredibly comfortable beds. The food was outstanding, with options ranging from Asian Fusion and Lebanese to Italian, Mexican, Caribbean, and a Steak House just to name a few.
The resort offered so much to do: a huge free games room with air hockey, Mario Kart, and other interactive games, mini golf, a small water park, free bicycle rentals, swim-up bars, and excellent entertainment. Despite its size, it never felt crowded—finding free sun loungers or a table in a restaurant was never a problem (except, perhaps, on Superbowl night). Relaxing in such a beautiful setting felt like the perfect way to end our holiday.
Hotel beach
Coco Bar at the beach, serving fresh coconuts all day
Several pools, many of which had also a swim-up bar
Unique Day Club - adults only pool area with bars and jacuzzis
Lounge bar
Tapas selection in the Spanish-themed tapas bar
Asian Fusion and sushi restaurant
We arrived in Madrid early in the morning, rushed to catch our flight to Barcelona, and then our final flight to Nice. Unfortunately, none of our suitcases made it with us—three were delivered the next day, but the fourth didn’t arrive for four days. A frustrating end to an otherwise incredible holiday!
Despite the travel chaos at the end, we absolutely loved Mexico and would definitely return. It’s a huge country with so much left to explore, and we feel like we’ve only just scratched the surface.
